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  #1  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:01 AM
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Default Seaclone skimmer mods

I know I know, this skimmer leaves much to be desired but I just recently was given one from a VERY generous fellow MR and seeing how I have yet to get a skimmer am very thankful.

I've been reading a bit about how to mod these and came up with a half dozen or so mods so figured I will run this skimmer for a week or two, record performance and then start modding.

Mods I have in mind:

1. Exchange the air control to a Precision needle valve. Think this will work? http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=15616)

2. Needle wheel mod with a bioball: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...81#post3331281

3. Seal the collection cup with an o-ring or plumbers tape.

4. Seal the pump to the venturi valve with plumbers tape.

5. Reduce the inner riser to 2 1/2"-3".

6. Reduce the collection cup inner tube a 1/2".

7. Pack the return with filter fabric to raise the water level in the skimmer and reduce micro bubble issues (should this arise). May do a bioball return basket mod for this as well.

8. debating on installing an air stone mod I saw as well, but want to try the bioball needle wheel mod first.

Again, I know this probably isn't the best skimmer out there but figured since I got it for free (and I have everything needed to do these mods except the needle valve) I might as well try some of this stuff out to see if I can get it to work better. I currently have this skimmer soaking and will start all of this sometime this week I hope. Probably going to run this on my 50 gal eventually but think I need to move my tank a few inches away from the wall in order to install this and mod my canopy slightly. Some of this may change once I start tinkering with it for a week or two. Will post progress as I move forward.
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2007, 01:53 PM
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I own a sea clone 150...what got me to buy mine was my lfs...they had them on all their tanks and had the cups full of junk...i am not by any means praising this skimmer but i made mine work with no mods.to get me by for a while....though it does seem cutting the tube tube in the collection cup by 2cm might help...a new air valve instead of the plastic black one was what i swapped out and that made it easier to dial in....i dont think it is worth cutting the inner tube imo...pretty tight squeeze...might break it.....man i would get about a full cup every three four days of really wet dark brown water....but i would have to adjust the thing a lot which does get old...i think they are better then prizims ime...the micro bubbles were a problem for me but went away after a week or so..one day they were just gone...they are lower end skimmers..but IMO are not as bad as their rap sheet....great deal for free!!!! Lucky!! oh the needle wheel...if you can get one to work i would say go for it !!!! Thats what my euro reef cs6-1 uses is venturi with a needle wheel...the bubble are so micro..its amazing...do you know what to look for as far as bubble consistancy???
  #3  
Old 09-24-2007, 01:54 PM
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I ran it on my 55g
  #4  
Old 09-24-2007, 02:38 PM
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i had the tube for water intake just above the plastic piece that the powerhead attaches and used an AquaClear 70 in its place. the AC70 fits perfict in the tube. i drilled a hole big enough to fit a airline hose in the bottom center for air intake and had awsome results. ill see if i can get a picture. there were micro bubbles so i used it in my fuge.
  #5  
Old 09-24-2007, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayCityReefer
do you know what to look for as far as bubble consistancy???

Well, this is my first personal experience with a protein skimmer other than seeing them in stores or on others tanks. From what I have read about skimmer design, it's all about getting a lot of small bubbles (small and dense) in the skimmers water column for as long of a period as you can while still creating enough froth/foam at the top of the skimmer to be able to collect skimmate. Reducing the inner tube is supposed to increase the bubble contact to the water column (although I can't imagine a few inches is really going to make a huge difference, it can't hurt either as long as I don't break it). I do have a dremel so may give it a try with that or I have also read if you are very careful, you can pry it out with a long pair of needle nose pliers then epoxy it back in later.

What type of air valve did you use and where did you get it?
  #6  
Old 09-24-2007, 03:22 PM
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I think it was a needle valve???? not sure i will check.thats not gonna help with performance mostly control...i am at work hehehe but will look when i get home.....you know if you are worried about contact time...i seen a guy add more pcv to the j tube. giving the air and water more contact time...he said it helped a lot....maybe try adding a straight piece of pvc between the j tube and the bottom of the skimmer where it connects.....worth a shot and it won't wreck the skimmer if it doesn't work...i wouldnt pry it out...the new ones are glued in...dont know which model or year...the older one have really long riser tubes the new ones have smaller 4 -5" tubes....i wouldnt think it would be much diffrent...you would think adding a needle and more contact time would help more....i nevver had an issue with foam going up and over into the cup..and the thing (maxijet) produces bubbles good...the needle wheel will produce more and finer (chops them) bubbles...JMO...whats your bioload and setup?
  #7  
Old 09-24-2007, 03:41 PM
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The only change I made to mine is the air valve. I seems to work really well, But it takes time to dial it in. I tried to pull the center tube out with needle nose pliers, and it almost broke a small piece off the top.
  #8  
Old 09-24-2007, 04:07 PM
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yeah i heard of a lot of ppl breaking it so i never tried it....i agree they are not that bad on their own with a suped up air valve what kind of air valve did you use tank dude?
  #9  
Old 09-24-2007, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayCityReefer
I think it was a needle valve???? not sure i will check.thats not gonna help with performance mostly control...i am at work hehehe but will look when i get home.....you know if you are worried about contact time...i seen a guy add more pcv to the j tube. giving the air and water more contact time...he said it helped a lot....maybe try adding a straight piece of pvc between the j tube and the bottom of the skimmer where it connects.....worth a shot and it won't wreck the skimmer if it doesn't work...i wouldnt pry it out...the new ones are glued in...dont know which model or year...the older one have really long riser tubes the new ones have smaller 4 -5" tubes....i wouldnt think it would be much diffrent...you would think adding a needle and more contact time would help more....i nevver had an issue with foam going up and over into the cup..and the thing (maxijet) produces bubbles good...the needle wheel will produce more and finer (chops them) bubbles...JMO...whats your bioload and setup?
I didn't get too good a look at it last night but I think it had a ~6" long inner tube so it's probably an older version. I got it home, broke it down and threw it in a 5gal bucket with some vinegar water to clean it. Going to scrub it down tonight and make sure the pump still works.

It's going to run on my 50 gal setup as a HOB style as the fuge/sump is all built in. I have a good 100lbs of well established LR in it, a 4" DSB (sand and CC mix).

Fish/inverts:
1 - 4-5" Melanurus Wrasse
1- 3" Midas Blenny
2 - 1 1/2" Blue/green Chromis
20-25 - Small Blue leg hermits
12-15 - Super Nassarius Snails
3 - Turbo Snails
1 - Sally light foot crab

Thinking of adding a mandarin in about 6 months or so depending on pod production and how much that wrasse eats. If he starts decimating the pods, I won't even consider adding a mandarin... but that is probably all I want on the fish side of things.

I do a 5gal water change every other week, run cheato and carbon in the built in sump and the water quality has been great so far other than a little diatom flare when I first got it and some random bubble algae that I think I have a good control of right now... I feed once a day and rotate meaty food one day and flake/pellet the other. They get to eat for 5-10 min with the pumps off then back on and everything seems to be happy/growing/healthy so far.

I definitely want to try the needle wheel mod and exchange that air controller but need to find a better version. Maybe I will hit the hardware stores tonight to see if they carry anything...
  #10  
Old 09-24-2007, 04:26 PM
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System sounds great tim...good work...Its really up to you if you wanna cut the tube or not..must have small hands or a big dremel..lol...On ebay they have maxi jet pump mods look there a pump mod usually includs some kind of propeller upgrade...lets you take from 265 (or whatever ) to 1500...check it out!!! i think the NW will give you the most noticable results IMO....Good call on running it in vinager...might take a day to start getting foam up the tube...maybe not...i have a healthy mandren and a lot of people will probaly yell at me but i have experianced my mandren eating frozen brine and tazzy seen it as well....i would suggest figuring out how reproduce pods in you refuge and add to the tank when the population gets low...but ...i dont see why your population would have to be ridiculas if you feed him brine here and there as well...they are picky and dont do good when they have to compete for pods...i am not an expert but i think if you where feeding brine and reproducing in your refuge (thats what i am working on!!) you would be fine ...im sure someone will correct me..lol My mandren is doing great !!
  #11  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:32 PM
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Got it all cleaned up tonight and started 'er up on my 15 gal QT tank that is just holding some LR at the moment. I now see what everyone means regarding that air control valve... total waste of plastic. I cut up a bioball and am ready for that but running it for the first night on the best bubble production I could manage to dial it into all stock. Bubbles at this point are barely touching the bottom of the collection cup inner tube. Will see what it looks like at a full cup. Figured I would time how long it takes it to fill a cup of skimmate and what the consistency is between each mod to evaluate it... Think the needle wheel will be first.
  #12  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:41 PM
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Cool...i would try it on the main tank where their is the most waste to be skimmed..jmo..sounds good ...Let me know what comes of the Needle wheel...Cheers Zac
  #13  
Old 09-27-2007, 09:01 AM
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Any update on that needle valve BayCityReefer? Haven't had time to shop for one but plan on searching this weekend.

I measured everything last night and I think it will fit in the sump box (with some minor tweaks to the canopy) of my 50 gal so will try to set it up in there tonight...
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algae, blue, canopy, clean, filter, free, fuge, green, healthy, huge, inverts, light, pods, powerhead, protein, protein skimmer, pump, return, sand, skimmer, skimmers, sump, tank, tanks, top


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