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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While at the swap yesterday both my dad and my girlfriend fell in love with this awesome purple and blue crocea clam. The price was very good so after picking the sellers brain a bit we bought the clam. On the ride home i immediately began reading about it on my phone. From what i read the clam is very healthy. It is less than 3" so im going to supplement phytoplankton starting today. But heres the thing. Im not sure if my t5HO lighting is enough. All of the publications i have read say they are the easier of the tridacna clams. And dont necessarily require MH. As suggested in the reading. My clam was acclimated to temp. Then to water chemirty. And placed in the sand bed to acclimate to my lighting where it remains now. I think i may end up keeping it in the sand bed by allowing it to attach to a small piece of live rock and once attached i will cover the rpck with sand. I have read this is the proper way to keep them there.
Over all i am asking if my 4bulb t5 HO fixture (2 aquablue special,1actinic,1blue) supplemented with 2LED strips is enough.
 

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I have had my maxima for a year under T5HO without doing anything. It is on the sand bed. The only time I had an issue was when I started vodka dosing. If you are cut the amount in half is my only advice. You may also need to feed it often at that size. At some point they become majority photosynthetic. Mine is about 6-7"
 

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What brand are the bulbs? That makes a huge difference, but I'd say it won't be ok on the sand. I have t-5's over my 90 but use 6 ATI bulbs. You can move it higher and it would be happier.
 

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I bought a crocea from the swap too. Wanted to compliment my large squamosa. Croceas grow in tidal zones. They are used to a ton of flow from wave action and intense sunlight. They are rock borers, so good job on the rock placement. Be careful not to put the sand to much on the clam as it irritates them and can cause them to not open. Clams like squamosas are sand dwellers so they are used to it. From everything I have read and heard they need lots and lots of light and a good amount of non linear flow. Being as its small, definitely feed it phyto until it gets bigger. Hope that helps.
 

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Once he attaches to a small rock buried in the sand, gradually try to move him up toward more light where he will be happy. I have a small Maxima on a rock on the bottom of my 90, under 6 ATI T5s. I'd like to move him up, but every time I have tried he jumps down... So I gave up and he seems fine down there, showing constant (though slow) shell growth. As far as feeding, my clam was a little less than 2" when I got him, and has never been target fed phyto. YMMV. Here is an interesting article I found some time ago regarding feeding Tridacnids.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/7/inverts
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
im using all ATI bulbs one may still be a geissman, but i think that one went out after 2 months :(.
i guess ill keep him where he is now, is there are ant signs of him being unhappy i this i could move my yellow polyp colony and put him there. that is 1/2 way up.
 

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Mine did well under 6 T-5s for a year and a half until the famous poweroutage of summer 2011...

They grow fast and I'd invest in some filter feeding formula with tiny suspended particles along with your daily feed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
for some reason i thought they were really really slow growers until i began reading yesterday.
how long can they live. no one really gives a number, they just say a really really long time.
 

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I wouldn't keep him where he's at. 3 people said they kept there's on a 90 using 50% more light than what you have...so move him on up:) ATI is a good brand, but you still need a higher number of them. He won't show signs for awhile...best not to wait until he does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well im still aclimating him. I gave him a nice size peice of rock today. He was visably attached within 20 min. I will.most likely move him to where the yellow polyps are now and that is almost half way up. Ill put the yellow.polyps down at the bottom because thats where they were before.
 

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dang i guess everyone got a crocea at the swap including me :)

clams are not as hard as people make them out to be, i find it pretty funny lol.
i currently have a derasa, maxima, and crocea and they are the easiest things to take care of in the tank because they require no care haha. but in all honesty croceas arent the easiest of the bunch. id have to say in easyness level from easiest to hardest would go like so... Derasa, squamosa, Gigas, hippopus, crocea, maxima. i personally just went ahead and put my crocea on the sand as i have no open space and its perfectly fine and happy down there so far. i dont think you will have to feed it just give it enough light and you should be good.
 

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I also got myself a clam from the swap and have 4 T-5 i have to actinics a purple and a white, iam still undecided if iam going to be leaving it on the bottom of my tank since i have no room for it on the top of my tank, and iam scared it will fall as well so i will be leaving it on the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
after my reading im unsure our 4 bulb t5 is going to be adequate for keeping clams at the bottom. i will be moving mine up. mine is attached to a small flat rock now so if i ever need to i can move him higher or lower without disturbing him much. i recommend anyone with a crocea to do the same as they are best suited attached to a solid piece of rock. his mantle is fully extended during the day and currently displayinf full color. but im not going to risk it hes going to be moved farther up after the acclimation period tht i has assigned (5 days).
 

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I also got myself a clam from the swap and have 4 T-5 i have to actinics a purple and a white, iam still undecided if iam going to be leaving it on the bottom of my tank since i have no room for it on the top of my tank, and iam scared it will fall as well so i will be leaving it on the bottom.
I would suggest replacing one of the Actinics with an Aqua Blue Special, Coral+, Blue+ or Purple+. Actinic bulbs dont give off enough of the right spectrums for coral growth, let alone a clam and being you only have 4 bulbs, IMO, but that is sacrificing some good light for better aesthetics.

Sounds like some nice clams were picked up at the swap. I wasn't able to go but, I have a Dersa Clam I picked up the first week of October and have seen about 1/2 to 5/8" shell growth since then. I have target fed initially for about a month and now only tank feed. the clams is probably in the area of 3-4 inches now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know alot of people have responded that use more light than i do. But i think im going to keep my clam on the bottom. It has taken very well to th rock i burried into the substrate. He looks very healthy and hasnt lost any color. I am worried that moving him now may lead to injury and change my lucky with this amazing clam.

Sent from my Samsung Smartphone using Tapatalk. When I should be doing something more productive.
 

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My maxim clam has been doing great on the sand but I know I should get him up on the rocks one of these days, had him about 3-4 months now and he was pretty small when I got him but only fed him light :3195:

Here is a quote from the trop a while back that is helpful.

"As someone who has worked with and grown Tridacnidae for a REALLY long time, ( we recently sold a 24" Gigas grown from a 2 incher to Mayor Blumberg NY) there are a few rules that didn't get mentioned so far in this thread. Small blue clams Crocea and Maxima, under 2 " can survive on about 1/2 the light they will need later, and "brown" clams, Derasa, squamosa, and Gigas, will grow long term on about 1/2 the light required by the larger blue ones. All tridacnas benefit from and grow faster with a little single cell Algae added just up-current with a baster. Nannochloropsis works OK and is very available, altho Isochrysis works even better, if available. 3 or 4 feedings a week worked well for us. Dick"
 

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Crocea clams are one of the highest light clams as mentioned earlier they live in shallower waters with very bright sun light and heavy flow. I have had one for 5 years and until I recently put him in an LED tank he has always been atleast half way up in the tank under either MH or 6bulb overdriven T5ho. They are rock boring clams and dont like sand. Mine is attached to a rock. As small clams they need filter food because like mentioned before they get only about half of their food source from light. As they get older they get darker in color as the zooxanthellae starts to mature. This is when they usually no longer need to filter feed (not a good idea to keep them in a sterile environment though). Not saying they dont still filter feed as adults. I can really tell stuff about my lighting and flow from my crocea. It was easy to tell when I needed to change bulbs as to how far he was open and how flow changed as pumps get dirty or corals growth changed flow by how far his input syphon was open. It was the first animal I switched over to my new tank and new lighting. I dont have a parmeter had no idea of LED intensity but could tell from my clam that the LEDs are much more powerful then anything he has been under so far.
Good luck with it. I would slowly move him up in the rock at least half way up over the next month or so.
 

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You are likely to need more light for optimal care. While T5 is fine (I had one under T5 but it was an 8 bulb fixture) you are only using four bulbs, two of which do not produce much useful (contributing to growth) light. At the very least, get it a high as you can.

I'm not sure you'll need the phytoplankton as these guys get their nutrition photosynthetically for the most part although it is sometimes perscribed for small ones but opinions differ. Also, make sure you keep up your calcium levels.
 

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mine

Had mine under T5's with old bulbs no problems. The key is quality bulbs like ATI. I am not recommending that you use old bulbs but rather to prove the concept that clams are fine and thrive under T5's when quality bulbs are used.

This guy is been under t5's for over a year and survived Vodka dosing overdose when its middle section was completely eroded.

 
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