Michigan Reefers banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the last few days my tank has been developing this rusty brown algae. It's all over and I haven't the slightest as to how to attack it? It's making my tank very unappealing and I can't stand it! I did a water test yesterday and my Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and PH were all spot on? If anyone has run into this before and can offer me a viable solution it would be greatly appreciated.

Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Is that tank already cycled? Brown algae is a stage of cycling, eventually is should change color. My all white tank is cycling right now and looks horrible from the brown algae.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The tank is about a year old. I should point out that I do not have test kits for Alkalinity or Gravity so I will purchase test kits for that today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
How old are your lights, and what is your photoperiod?

I had the same problem when I upgraded from 150watt MH to 250watt MH on my 29, I had to reduce my photoperiod from 12 hours to 9 and it stopped the brown algae. I'm now in the process of bringing it back to a 12 hour period with a 15 minute increase every week. So far no algae and I'm at 10.25 hours.
 
G

·
I would look at the phosphate level/Nitrate level...The algae could be consuming it faster than you can test it...Once they consume it, it will test zero...Water source? RO? old RO? test your make up water & see what it tests?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have 2 different size lights because I have a bow front with a custom canopy. Anyway, The halide and one set is about a year old. The other set is about 3-4 months. My photoperiod until today was about 10hrs on the halide and an additional hour before and after of the PC's. I just reduced my halide time to 8 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I know that old bulbs can be a contributor to algae blooms. Generally, you should replace the bulbs once a year, and believe it is even sooner for MH lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Old lighting can lead to algae blooms. As the spectrum changes it becomes more of a "plant light." I change my halide bulbs around 8 months, and my pcs about 6 months. Also, as jim197722 says check your nitrates and phosphates, I would also add silicates to that list.

What are you using for a water source?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you're refering to how I top off the tank I use R/O water that I get from House of Pets. Also, I'm pretty consistent with my water changes also. I;m also experiencing a lot of tiny bubbles. Someone suggested my lines so I dealt with that yesterday and took the cannister apert and made sure everything was secure. The fish are doing fine omething is just not right? like I said in my earlier post; my Nitrate and Nitrites were undetectable and my Ammonia and PH were all fine. I just want to get a handle on this thing ya know. I welcome all advice!
 
G

·
do you test the water from house of pets prior to using it? Sometimes places slack & squeeze every drop out of their RO filter...Check your makeup water from HOP. Also I never seen a response on your phosphate level? It's is very important to check your makeup water...When you are testing your tank with algae growing, it might test zero...Rusty brown algae sounds like the beginning of HA..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
over the summer I had high phosphtes and struggled to get the levels down. A couple things I started to do were:

1) rinse-if possible- all frozen foods before feeding the tank. frozen foods can contain phosphates as part of the freezing process.

2) test the ro water from your lfs that you are using, maybe they need to change their filters. My ro unit needed the filters changed badly.

3) install a phosphate reactor with media

4) use macro algae in your sump/fug.

5) regular water changes

Once all these were done, my phosphate levels dropped.

your lights will contibute to all this if they are old.

good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
The problem could also be your test kit. Have your LFS check your water. I had a bad test kit once and when I finally had the LFS tested I found that my nitates were at 80ppm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Should I start with a 60% or 70% water change or is that a bad idea? I can get the water at Tropicorium?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Before doing anything drastic, get an accurate testing of your water and the water you are using for top off and changes to get a better idea of what it might be. doing water changes are always good but do not to a large water change. that can change your parameters too much and have a negative effect on it. I would do 20-25% every couple days if it was my tank. Your getting the effect of a large water change but slowely over a period of time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
PrimoPromo said:
How old are your lights, and what is your photoperiod?

I had the same problem when I upgraded from 150watt MH to 250watt MH on my 29, I had to reduce my photoperiod from 12 hours to 9 and it stopped the brown algae. I'm now in the process of bringing it back to a 12 hour period with a 15 minute increase every week. So far no algae and I'm at 10.25 hours.
I just had the same thing happen with an upgrade to 250watt MH on my 50G, and cut them back to 9 hours a few days ago. My lunar lights are on the rest of the time, and I'm wondering if I should shorten the time on those, too. They're all on one timer now, the lunars come on when the MH is off, first blue then white. I can separate them on other timers since I've got three or four in the 'fish cabinet', though, or just turn them off for a while. Also, I've got a lot of light in my house, but have the MH on during the day to match the time when the house is the brightest.

Do you run any other lighting besides the 250watt MH?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top