Michigan Reefers banner
1 - 20 of 78 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright. since a few people are looking for some info on my sump/refugium I'll be making a "How To Guide".

This is the main Goal.


This is where I put my skimmer. (I switched to a CPR2 BakPak)


This is the main goal at work.


Alright, I can't give exact measurements for the glass to be cut since not all 10 Gal aquariums are the same size. (I found this out the hard way by going with my previous measurements... then needing to get more glass.



All of the Baffles in BLUE go to the bottom completely.

All of the Baffles in RED go all the way to the bottom of the plastic.

Baffle A. Should be about 3.5" to 4" Tall.
Baffle C. Determines the water level in the refugium area. You may want to lower this area if you have a large volume aquarium.
Baffle D. Can be about 1" from the black plastic edge OR you can make it lower to give the chaeto more of a tumble.
Baffles B and E should be about 1" from the bottom of the glass.

ok, so that will give you a rough idea as to the height of your glass.

Next up is the width. This one, you'll have to measure out on your own. But, I would suggest having an extra 1/8" on each side, so make your width measurement 1/4 too short, this way you can move it easily into place.

When measuring for the glass measure on the outside of the tank within the front and back glass panels, otherwise the glass will be too large.



If you don't want to cut the glass yourself you can go to just about any local hardware store give them the dimensions and they will cut the glass there for little to no extra cost.

Using 100% Silicone, with no mold inhibitors and other chemicals you'll be putting the baffles into their places.

I would suggest doing Baffle A and E first.
Then silicone Baffle B and D next.
The last baffle to go in will be C.

However before putting any baffles in place.
1. Get a dry erase marker.
2. Get a tape measure.
3. Get either 4 bricks... or books. or somethin' to hold some glass in place.
4. Know the dimensions of your skimmer, return pump, where your return and water entry lines will be going. Or have a rough idea.
5. 4x 1" pieces of cardboard bent at 90"


6. A LOT of papertowel for clean-up.
7. Egg crate.

Alright, now that you have what you will be needing here's how to silicone baffles into place.

I'm going to be using some fake measurements for a return pump and skimmer.
Return Pump 5"
Skimmer Pump 5"

Start by using the measurements of the return pump. If the pumps is 5" wide you'll want to have the first section 6" wide.

So, make the a mark 6" from the side of the tank for Baffle A. Then use your square to make a line going straight up. Do the same on the opposite side of the tank.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Baffle A:
After you have your line on the tank you can place Baffle A in the tank where it need to be by following the lines on each side, then place a brick on each side of it. After the bricks are in place silicone each side of Baffle A. Make sure that the silicone goes under the glass and comes out on the other side. You may only be able to silicone one side of the glass.











 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Baffle E:
Once you have measured the skimmer pump you can make the makes the same way you did on Baffle A. Afterword place the baffle into place with two pieces of cardboard supporting it 1" from the bottom. then place both bricks on each side of the baffle and silicone into place.



















BTW, the silicone looks bad because I didn't have anyone helping me with this at all. So, save yourself a lot of effort and have someone help. It will be less stressful.

Once baffle A is somewhat in place let it sit for about an hour till the silicone can hold the glass on it's own. After remove the bricks and silicone the bottom in place. Remember to silicone completely under the glass.

Let the silicone sit for about 8 hours.

Then move onto baffles B and D.

My baffles are only about 1/4" apart from each other. It's to save room and increase the spead of water between them, plus it keeps and hermits or anything else I keep in my refugium from getting stuck in the return pump.

Remove the bricks from inside the aquarium.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Baffle B.
Using some egg crate for the baffle spacing. The lines aren't really important anymore they are more of a guide, so don't worry if the baffle isn't on them 100% or at all actually, just as long as the glass is even with the lines.

Place a piece of the cardboard at the bottom keeping the glass 1" from the bottom. Then place some egg crate between Baffle A and B, and place a brick on the other side holding Baffle B in place, then silicone the sides of Baffle B in place.





Moving on....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·










 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·










Finished product.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Added Info By TimMSU

What I do is take the difference of my water line and the inlet of my overflow, durso drain or sump box wier to figure out how much the tank will drain. To do this just look at how your overflow, durso or sump box wier depth in comparison to your water level and then do a little math. Lets say you have a 24" cube and your durso is 2" under the water level:

24" x 24" x 2" = 1152 cubic inches

1152 Cu. in. x (1 gallon/231 Cu. in.) = 4.99 Gallons

- or -

1152 Cu. in / 231 Cu. in = 4.99 gallons

(1 us gallon = 231 Cu. in.)

This means your sump needs enough area to hold an extra 5 gallons (and I would add 20% to that for a safe margin of error). So 6 gallons.

To figure out how much area you need, you can use the area over the macro and return pump section for this holding area. You would just take the footprint measurement of the two chambers and then divide that into the Cu. in. of how much water you need to hold, or in mathematical equations:

Lets say the two chambers measure 12" wide by 14" long,

12" x 14" = 168 square inches

6 gallons x 231 Cu. in = 1386 Cu. in

Now just take the volume of water you need and divide it by the two chambers foot print to get the depth of the area needed to hold 6 gallons of water.

1386 Cu. in / 168 sq. in. = 8.25"

To allow for enough area, you would take the height of your sump and then subtract 8.25" from (**EDIT**) baffle C and this will give you the proper area to keep your floor dry in the event of a power outage.

Now with a 10 gallon sump you may only have a 25-30 gallon tank so obviously my numbers are a bit out of context, but hopefully this doesn't completely make you all go cross-eyed.
Added Info by Chowderhead
For safety sake, the sharp fresh cut edges of the glass can be smoothed down by carefully using sandpaper to "round them down" a bit. WEAR GLOVES AND GLASSES!
More stuff from me.
I'm going to a Local Hardware store to buy and have them cut the glass for us.

Otherwise, I would sit a fishtank on the glass on the line I would want to cut. Then, take the glass cutter and move it along the edge of the tank that is sitting on the glass. That's how I usually make my cuts.

To break the glass, I turn it over then place the tank back on the newly cut line (while on a hard flat surface) then I lift on one side of the glass, and USUALLY it snaps across the line perfectly.

BTW, make sure to always wear gloves and eye protection.
Also, you can use a dremel to to sand the edges of the glass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Egg Crate LR shelf.

First measure what size you'll be needing.





Then make some leggs for the egg crate, 1" high or higher.



After, we'll attach the legs to shelf with zip ties.

here's the most effective way I do.





Once you fine the positions you want them in place the crate into the other crate, then add the ziptie like so.



repeat this 2 or more times for each piece you're attaching.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
cut off the extra bit of ziptie.



then voila, a shelf for LR



This shelf goes into the Water entry area and LR area.



And this concludes this small "how to"

Any questions? Ask away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
didnt want to post in this fine "how to" and ruin it. but i must say:

STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




very good work. -yes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
993 Posts
lilwillywilly said:
didnt want to post in this fine "how to" and ruin it. but i must say:

STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

very good work. -yes
If I were to say it better , I couldn't .Great job John Operating Systems
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I really wish I had some bricks though... sometimes encyclopedias just don't stay where I want them to... it's hard to tell from the pics but they move a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Has anyone used this DIY thread to build a sump/refugium yet? if so how has it worked out for you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
I'm using your plans and changing them a little because im using a 20 long. Also im using 40's that i filled with water instead of encyclopedias works great -devil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Very cool.

I should have did a new how to with my new setup... but this one is much easier to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,828 Posts
Any reason the return section is so low? Seems like unless you have an ato, you would have to top it off 2 or 3 times a day. Also the drop from 11" to 4" will promote micro bubbles to get through becasue its like a 7" waterfall. That means that the micros won't start floating up until they hit those bottom 4" and by that time there might be enough force to just puch them through. Thought I might point that out. I bet it isn't a problem with yours since you have such a large fuge where bubbles can dissapate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have a 10 Gallon Fuge.

The 11" baffle should probally be lower, but it works fine and I have no micro bubbles. Since there is a small waterfall effect, imo it give the micro bubbles a chance to come into contact with the other micro bubbles and because a bit bigger before they go up past the 4" baffle, which is there to create less splashing near the return pump, and to keep the micro bubbles going on their upward journey.

As for topping it off, I only top my tank off once a day. It's about 1 Gallon each day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,828 Posts
Johnos said:
I have a 10 Gallon Fuge.

The 11" baffle should probally be lower, but it works fine and I have no micro bubbles. Since there is a small waterfall effect, imo it give the micro bubbles a chance to come into contact with the other micro bubbles and because a bit bigger before they go up past the 4" baffle, which is there to create less splashing near the return pump, and to keep the micro bubbles going on their upward journey.

As for topping it off, I only top my tank off once a day. It's about 1 Gallon each day.
The 11" baffle is fine, its the 4" baffle that I think should be higher. If the 4" baffle was 10" high you would have more water in the pump chamber (good incase you forget a topoff or have an emergency) , would increase total system volume which is almost always good, and would allow better micro bubble diffusion.

At least this is what I have found.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How would making the 4" baffle higher increase your water volume?

You can have your water level set about the 4" baffle. The baffle is NOT the water height, plus if your water level would be low you would have more splashing in the return chamber.

Build one, then try it.

btw, thanks for the feedback, it helps me to clarify some items I missed.

 
1 - 20 of 78 Posts
Top