[ofblong]

Ok I got my car tested (for free hmm wonder how many service centers are going to start giving this for free). The error came up with EGR Valve excessive flow. Kinda odd cause I have only seen too little flow. Anyways this happened to me 4 yrs ago but it said little flow. the dealer ended up changing the sensor and the valve. Should I do that again? I will change it myself now that I know more about what I am doing and what an egr valve is hehe. being and industrial mechanic doesnt mean I can fix cars right but I can get by on the little stuff . Anyways what do you guys think? Should I replace both?

 

[Jimbob]

What kind of car, engine, etc. Specifics would help.

If by any chance it is a Ford 4.6L or one of the newer GM V6 engines, it is entirely possible that a chunk of carbon got stuck in the pintle of the EGR valve and held it open. Excessive flow does not indicate too much flow from an overall standpoint, but rather, it indicates excessive flow for a given situation. If the computer commands it open just a little bit but detects that it is open more than it commanded it to be, the computer will set an excessive flow code.

You may just need to clean the EGR valve. If that doesn't work, just the valve should require replacement.

 

[ofblong]

it is a 1997 ford taurus 3.0L v6 with 108,000 miles. Just seems like a pain to get the valve off. 2 bolts and then its threaded to a pipe that goes somewhere. likes like 1" pipe.

 

[rodrace21]

I will check TSB" technical Service Bullitns" when I get to work in the morning but ...... my guess is a chunk of carbon is holding the valve open since it fails closed. I would start by taking the valve off and cleaning it out. That 1" pipe goes down to the exhaust pipe behind the motor if I remember..... be carefull when you take that nut off the EGR valve so you dont twist the pipe and break it down below..... THAT will be a fun job


Kevin

 

[ofblong]

I will check TSB" technical Service Bullitns" when I get to work in the morning but ...... my guess is a chunk of carbon is holding the valve open since it fails closed. I would start by taking the valve off and cleaning it out. That 1" pipe goes down to the exhaust pipe behind the motor if I remember..... be carefull when you take that nut off the EGR valve so you dont twist the pipe and break it down below..... THAT will be a fun job

Kevin

hehe thanks. as for twisting the pipe thats where 2 channel locks will come in handy =]. looks like there is just enough room to get a couple pair in there and loosen it. doesnt mean its gonna be easy though. Just last time (when I was young dumb and stupid) i took the car into a dealer and had them do it and it cost me almost $300. this time $30 for part plus my time is alot cheaper.

 

[wingsfan]

if the EGR valve is what is bad go ahead and change it yourself. You will save a bunch of money.If youdo ,do it yourself on most parts you replace you need to disconect the battery for a short while. That way when you hook it back up and start the car the computer knows something has been changed and will adjust to the changes. It just cost us 6 bill to have the O2 sencors changed in our 97 F-150 , and I could have changed them myself after the shop told us what was wrong, but I figured I'd let them change them since the car was already there and they could recheck it after they replaced them. That way I knew it would be ok when we got it back.

 

[rodrace21]

Well I didnt find any TSB's related to the EGR.

do you have the actual CODE they pulled ?

I would not use channel locks on that pipe its pretty thin and I would use the right sized wrench on the nut or the good old metric adjustable "crescent wrench". just watch that pipe and make shure its not trying to rotate, it realy shouldnt but just be carefull.

Kevin

BTW I wouldnt worry about the battery ..... it will relearn as you drive it

 

[ofblong]

I know bout the battery. I had to disconnect it many times on my old car. I replaced 3 transmissions on my old car in the 4 yrs I had it (pain in the butt how they are set into ford taurus's =[). this car this is the second time something has gone wrong with it and I have had it almost 5 yrs. your right bout channel locks. even so I forgot to grab the tools from work last night so I guess ill be doing it tomarrow hehe. it came up with a0402 I believe. I know it came up with 0402 but dont remember if it was an a or ae before.

thanks for info guys =]

 

[Jimbob]

Spray the pipe and nut down real good with a rust penetrant first (I like PB Blaster) and let it soak for a good 30 minutes or so... it will help the nut spin freely on the pipe when you go to crack it loose. Also, it is best to remove the bolts that hold the EGR valve to the intake manifold when the engine is cold. Removing steel bolts from an aluminum manifold on a warm engine is generally frowned upon as you run a much higher risk of stripping the threads out of the manifold.

 

[ofblong]

Spray the pipe and nut down real good with a rust penetrant first (I like PB Blaster) and let it soak for a good 30 minutes or so... it will help the nut spin freely on the pipe when you go to crack it loose. Also, it is best to remove the bolts that hold the EGR valve to the intake manifold when the engine is cold. Removing steel bolts from an aluminum manifold on a warm engine is generally frowned upon as you run a much higher risk of stripping the threads out of the manifold.

I love pb blaster cept there is alot of equipment it is against fda regulations and cgmp requirements to use pb blaster. The other thing is we have a piece of equipment that we keep telling the operators to not touch the steel bolts while the unit is hot because it will strip the aluminum out. But do you think they listen? heck no. but yes i knwo what you mean for doing it on a cold engine. I plan on doing it tomarrow morning when I get up. that way it is a cold engine =].