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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched through other threads relating to this topic and could only find info on corner overflows so I'm hoping someone could help me out with this.

I recently increased my return flow from my sump by increasing the diameter of the tubing. Before then, I had bubbles in my u-tube of the overflow and the flow to my sump was pretty slow. Since then, I've noticed an occassional flushing sound, maybe every 15 minutes or so from my hob overflow. I've tried sticking a bioball on top, which actually decreased the flow to the sump more, and I tried a piece of airline tubing down the tube but this didn't seem to have any effect. My main worry is that the flow to the sump will be stopped and my ato will kick in and the tank will flood so I disconnected the ato temporarily.

Do I need a bigger HOB overflow (it doesn't seem as though its able to take the water out of the part that is in the tank fast enough, its about 3/4 full)? I have no idea what my overflow is rated for, it came with the tank when I got it from a fellow reefer several years ago.
 

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Do you have a pic?

Since mine is made with PVC and it also made a flushing noise, I drilled some holes in an adapter to skatter the flow of water going in, this way it wouldn't create air pockets that would make the gargling noise.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's not a cpr. It was made by a small company in the area (I only know this because its stamped on the side. There is no lifter pump with it.

I'll try the holes in the side, and other suggestions while I do that?
 

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You could use a durso or stockman arraingement if you have room. Search for "Durso Standpipe" and you will get lots of info.
 

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The positioning of the hose leading down to your sump will normally do the trick. Play with it, put a curve in it so it doesn't hang straight down, or you might need to hang straight down, try many different positions. I have had mine so it's gurgulling, gulping, whirring like a vacum cleaner, building up an air pocket and burping like you explain, etc. You walk into my family room now and you can hear the water flowing through the system and the over-flow is virtually silent. For me it was just trial and error in finding the right hose path to the sump.

On a more important note, why in the world would you be using a single switch ATO actuator? That is kind of like shooting craps. The law of averages dictates that you roll the dice so many times and it is guaranteed you are going to crap out!!! Get a dual switch setup and the flood worrys are gone so far as ATO goes. I went with the one from autotopoff.com for about 50 bones I think it was. Works like a champ, my water level doesn't vary 1/8".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Chopstix - did yours empty slowly? Mine seems to not be taking up water quickly enough, and I'm wondering if just moving the hose will increase it. It seems logical that if I drilled holes more would be able to go down the hose?

I went with the JBJ ato I have because I'm not tech savvy! I don't understand all the workings of it, so I bought one that is plug and play. After looking at the directions though, it looks like I can configure it to reach a min and max level in the sump, but then the pump isn't protected if the water in the reservoir runs low:(
 

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If there is a low spot in your drain line water will lay there and then flush. Also bear in mind water will only drain as fast as you are returning it to the tank, is your pump large enough to do the job?
 

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I'm not trying to hijack your thread but I also have a HOB Overflow question.

If the power goes out and comes back on while you are at work, how does the overflow get re-primed?
 

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Your overflow tube will be below the water level in your skimmer box, both inside and outside when water stops flowing air cannot get in and break the siphon
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My problem is that the drain doesn't seem to be draining fast enough, water is actually above the pvc in the outer overflow box before the tubing, the tubing doesn't actually fill with water, there's lots more room. If the pump wasn't strong enough (which it wasn't before) then the water level in the part of the overflow in the tank is very low and you'll see bubbles in the u-tube, mine is actually quite high now and no bubbles.
 

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how many GPH is the overflow rated at, and what is the return pump rated at? Perhaps you may need a larger overflow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That's where I think my problem is, but wanted ideas. Like I said in the initial post, I have no idea what its rated at b/c I got it from a fellow reefer. The reason I think its not big enough is because of the water level on the box in the tank, its only about an inch to 2 inches below the water level in the aquarium. Before I increased the flow from the return pump (by increasing the return tubing diameter) the level in the box was much lower (so it was being removed by the overflow much faster), but I got bubbles in the u-tube.
 

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I don't know if this will help, but in my one of my tanks I have a 3/4 in overflow tube in the skimmer box, a 1 1/4 drain line to the sump and I'm returning 700 gallons per hr to the tank. If I lower the GPH of water returning to the tank the siphoning water will slow down and bubbles will collect in the top of the overflow tube. Basically what I'm saying is if you return the water at a higher rate back to the tank the water siphoning out will also speed up. There should not be any water accumulating in the drain line at all it just trickles through. if water lays in a low spot it will flush and give you problems. ;)
 

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reefpoor said:
Your overflow tube will be below the water level in your skimmer box, both inside and outside when water stops flowing air cannot get in and break the siphon
I guess I dont understand. Eventually the water will either drain down below the the overflow tube in the skimmer box causing the siphon to break OR it is going to drain the main tank to the point of overflowing the sump, or am I missing something?

How do you keep all of this from happening and, be assured that the overflow will be primed if the siphon breaks and then the power comes back on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Motorcitymadman - because both ends are underwater the siphon never breaks, so when the power comes back on, the water level in the tank rises again, flows into the overflow, and the water flows into the sump.
 

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wouldnt it eventually drain to the point where the overflow tube is no longer below water? How do you keep that from hapenning? I'm having a hard time visualizing this.
 

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Sry if this seems like a hijack, but how can someone find out how much a HOB overflow is rated for? I have one that im about to set up but it was used and I dont a clue if it will be enough.
 
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