hot water closed loop heating

2432 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by ReeferAL, May 9, 2012

ReeferAL

Discussion Starter · May 7, 2012

Im starting a new tank set-up with approx 400g. Ive been looking at ways to save some money with the build electricty wise and Ive been looking into trying a closed loop set-up with my hot water heater. From my understanding its generally cheaper to heat the tank with a hotwater set-up than a standard electric heater.

I belive Ive got the basics of how to set one up but id really like some info from someone who has run one.

Frist my general concept of the system is as follows. Intake from the hot water line in your house goes to a pump which pumps the water through a coil in your tank. the water then feeds back into your cold water line and back to the hot water tank.

Im not to sure about it as ive never seen one in person.

If that really is all I need what type of pump do I need to run the system? any suggestions on type of tubing for the coil? I would assume any type of metal would be a bad idea. Is it really a cheaper alternative to an electric heater? I would also assume I could attach the pump to a heater controller to regulate the temp. Anything else I need to know to give this a shot?

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

jamey1010

· #2 · May 7, 2012

Here's a good place to start...

http://www.michiganreefers.com/foru...-heat-sources.html?highlight=closed+loop+heat

206 replies last time around :victory:

Duncmac

· #3 · May 7, 2012

i was at a local reefers the other day and he used his water heater to heat his entire system. frag tank, fuge, sump, display....

i cant remember the name of the system he used but he had a controller with a temp probe, and when needed it would kick on a pump to draw water from his water heater into a coil in his sump....
im sure i could ask him the name of it...

slapshot

· #4 · May 7, 2012

I run my heat that way. Yes, it as simple as that. $100 pump from Home Depot, $25.00 worth of pex tubing, $10 worth of connectors and a couple of hours time. I did have to put a valve on the output of the pump to slow down the water because it was heating too fast. No more broken heaters and a ton of savings.

Andy

· #5 · May 7, 2012

I've been heater free for over a year and its great, no more stray voltage, broken heaters and a constant temp in the DT. I'm saving $65/mth on electric. I'm heating a 220 with a hundred gallon sump with no problem at all.

ReeferAL

Discussion Starter · #6 · May 7, 2012

It sounds like a great idea. I spend so much on electricty id reall like to lower it. If I can pick all the parts up for a couple hundred bucks theres no reason not to give it a try. heck ill spend that buying an electric heater big enough to heat that much water anyway.

Also thx for the link I always forget to try a search first...

spartyblaze

· #7 · May 7, 2012

I am researching this too... I've heard that Gas HW heaters are the only way to save the $$, as a point of reference.

Otherwise, seems very simple!

Dr.Tone

· #8 · May 7, 2012

i did this before. its a piece of cake.
http://www.michiganreefers.com/foru...ment/124340-hot-water-heater-closed-loop.html

ReeferAL

Discussion Starter · #9 · May 7, 2012

I was thinking of branching off my washer water hook up similar to what was in the video. what type of pump is that you used?

NewBostonConst

· #10 · May 8, 2012

slapshot said:
I run my heat that way. Yes, it as simple as that. $100 pump from Home Depot, $25.00 worth of pex tubing, $10 worth of connectors and a couple of hours time. I did have to put a valve on the output of the pump to slow down the water because it was heating too fast. No more broken heaters and a ton of savings.

Over shooting temperature is because you have more tubing in the water then you need. How much tubing do you have?

slapshot

· #11 · May 8, 2012

For sure that is a problem. I have 25 feet but I was just too lazy to take it all out again plus I think the valve gives me more control. If I cut it too short then I'd be pissed. Lol

entropicstatic

· #12 · May 8, 2012

If you have a large tank system and a Gas hot water heater do it!
this is saving me a pretty good chunk of change every month on my ~350 gallon system. just make sure you get a good pump. Stick with either the brass or the SS taco's. Avoid cast iron.
and make sure to buy a quality temperature controller unit. IT is your only line of defense against boiling or freezing your fish. I left a few electric heaters turned way down still sitting in my sump just in case something goes awry with the controler.

ReeferAL

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 8, 2012

400 ish gallons and a gas hot water heater so I'm good to go with that. I really wasn't looking forward to spending the $50+ more a month to just heat the tank. I plan on using my jbj heater controller for the system till I get a tank controller. All I really need is a good pump I'm just not sure what to go with.

slapshot

· #14 · May 8, 2012

entropicstatic said:
If you have a large tank system and a Gas hot water heater do it!
this is saving me a pretty good chunk of change every month on my ~350 gallon system. just make sure you get a good pump. Stick with either the brass or the SS taco's. Avoid cast iron.
and make sure to buy a quality temperature controller unit. IT is your only line of defense against boiling or freezing your fish. I left a few electric heaters turned way down still sitting in my sump just in case something goes awry with the controler.

Good points! I use my Neptune to control. This is the pump I got from Home Depot. It is all brass and has worked well for over a year now. With 400 gallons of water in my system I'm sure I'm saving 30 to 50 dollars a month.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/plumbing/water-heaters/watts/hot-water-recirculating-pump-with-timer-42146.html

Gyyro

· #15 · May 8, 2012

I have been using one since this last winter, 120g tank with 250g in the sump and frag tank.

I used the Reefkeeper, small Taco pump and a 100' of 1/2" pex tube, 50' of which is coiled in the sump.

I have had no problem with temp creep so far, but I do have shut off valves on the in and out lines from the water heater so I can turn it off in the summer.

I have to say this is one of the best things I have invested in for my tank as I plan to go to a 220g display this summer, I saw a $30 drop in my electric this winter on my current system after the switch.

-Matt

Andy

· #16 · May 8, 2012

ReeferAL said:
I was thinking of branching off my washer water hook up similar to what was in the video. what type of pump is that you used?

I'm not sure how your house is set up but I used the facuet furthest from my hotwater tank, which is the kitchen sink. I tapped into the hot supply which is the last in a line of four ( bathroom off kitchen, laundry room sink, sink in the basement and the fishroom wash tub). Now, I have instant hot water all the time at all five sinks. Before, I had to let the kitchen sink run for over a minute before it got hot. Now, I can't count to 3 before I have to pull my hands out from under the faucet. I have 40ft of pex in my sump and its way to much, the pump only runs/cycles for 4-5 minutes. I'm going to remove 15~20ft of pex to get the pump to cycle longer. Make sure you set set an alarm on your controller to turn the pump off if it goes below 75degrees. I had my hot water tank pilot light go out in a wind storm and my RKL alarm saved me.

ReeferAL

Discussion Starter · #17 · May 9, 2012

sadly where I plan to hook it up is only a few feet from my hot water heater so im not sure how much of a diffrence it will really make for the hot water in my home. It only takes 20sec at the most to get hot water anyway so im not to concerned about it. the one concern I do have is my ro system is hooked up at the same spot. Im hoping the return water from the heater coil will be cool enough to not damage my ro membranes.

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

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