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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
My GF really wants a seahorse tank and if I am going to consider this. I would like to tie it in to my existing 90 as it is established and doing well. The tie in would probably be a 50 gallon long. Through my research, I have read that certain seahorses can be kept at warmer temperatures while others will be prone to illness and disease at temps above 74. My question is. Can seahorses be succesfully kept long term at temps of 78 degrees? And if so, Which species are more likely to adjust to warmer temps? Also, if possible. What would be better for flow, a PVC spray bar running the length of the tank or a power head such as an MP10? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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I've never had a Seahorse but i keep a Pipefish. Mine has sur-thrived in my reef tank. The temp has always been around 76-78 and pounded with flow (on my 29 gallon with a Mp-10). IMO if you could keep the water around 75-78 you SHOULD be okay, I wouldn't let it get any higher though and would try to keep it as low as possible. With Seahorse's I don't think you would want a mp-10, unless it was dialed way back, so I would do the spray bar with a ton of hitching posts.
I'm seriously debating doing a Seahorse/Pipefish only tank with a ton of macro. That would eliminate alot of the problems found keeping them in a reef tank, so I will be tagging along. Do you really have to tie it in? Why not just set-up it's own system? Either way it sounds like you're on the right track, doing research, the Pony and Pipe forums seems pretty dead anyways lol. Just wanted to let you know there are a few of us though haha.
 

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I can't say if they would be fine at lower temps, just know i had mine at 72 degrees, varying from 71-74 and I never had a single disease or problem. Don't know if i would have had any problems with a higher temp, but I think there is a good reason to keep them at the lower temps. Not to mention if you have it tied to your other tank, any disease that might break out can and will be then transferred into all of your tanks, and then possibly affect or kill all of your fish. Not something I would be willing to gamble if I were you.

On another note, I do have a small chiller 1/15 hp for sale, brand new, was going to use on my seahorse tank, but in the basement the tank stayed cool enough without it. I am selling it for $200, it is a $400 chiller.

As for flow, I would say a spray bar would be better than an mp10. An mp10 provides pretty wide range of water movement, and that could limit the amount of low water flow areas that the seahorses like to go to if they are in too much current. Even just a koralia would be better in this circumstance because they have more of a focused flow, and you can direct it in the tank allowing the seahorses to move out of the way if they want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input so far. A stand alone system would probably be the best route to take. I was just thinking that if I could tie it in that way I could use my current filtration and sump, adding several different types of macro to the seahorse tank. Also, keeping it more stable with the high water volume at around 170 gallons total. Will look into this more but, as you guys and gals have mentioned thus far. A stand alone at around 72-74 degrees would probably be the ideal tank. Just more work:(:)
 

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I keep my h.erectus in my reef tank at 78-80. I know it isn't the ideal temps and it will make them more susceptible to diseases, but they're the only fish in the tank, and they are doing fine. In the summer it got even higher, and they survived without any issues. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, though.

If I had other types of fish in there (increased variety and sources of pathogens), I'd probably give them their own tank.

As to flow - anything that they could get sucked into, or could get their little tails into (they try to grab everything!) is bad, so I wouldn't recommend any in-tank powerheads. My flow is supplied by the return, by a Mag5 and only pointed in one direction. The horsies avoid it for the most part, and will occasionally get caught in it and tumbled, but it doesn't hurt them.
 

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I would use the spray bar..I had a dart reef over 3000 gph returning to my 225 Sea Horse and using a spray bar across the length of the tank worked great. I don't recomend power heads and I built a cage out of eggcreate arounf my overflows so they would not get sucked to them. My tanks were tied together, with temps around 77*. the sea horse tank with all its macro algea act like another fuge. worked fine. just always set an area up that has very low flow for them to rest and sleep. I had NO die off, sold my sea horses so I could put all my other fish in there while I rebiult my other tank.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I appreciate all the info and everyones experience. I think I'm going to give this a go. The build will start soon. I will post a build thread when it does. Tank will be a 50 Gallon long with two stand pipes for the overflows. I will put some Mesh guards on them so nothing can get stuck or sucked down the pipes. I am going with the spray bar. Not sure it it will be 3/4 inch or one inch. I'm thinking about a 1200 gph Pan World pump from BRS that will return the water to both the 90 and the 50 from a 55 gallon sump/ sump fuge. Again, thanks for the input, always welcome.

Also, I wanted to ask what the general food everyone was or is feeding their horses? I know I will be getting tank bred horses and probably from seahorses.com or another reputable dealer, or local anyone knows of someone. I will stock the tank heavily with pods before adding any horses and will be using LR that came out of my current system and is still in tank water with pumps and lighting. The sand will be new.
 
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