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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

The time of playing with the all in ones has ended, and the big boy setup has begun.
Previous to this I've had a BC14 and currently running a JBJ28.
http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/nano-reefs/122462-jbj-28g-quad-cf.html

Wife, (boss), approved up to a 48" footprint, but I thought that would overtake the room. The tank will be on the 2nd floor of our home in my office.

I've started sourcing parts/pieces of the system for the past month and finally found the tank/stand we were looking for.

Stand/canopy was picked up today and the tank should be with me this weekend. Stand/canopy interior is getting covered in "Killz" for mold/mildew resistance and overall better ease of cleanup.

Tank will be a 65 breeder drilled.

Lighting will be a 6 bulb 36" T5 setup. Will look into LEDs down the road but this is a great start (IMO).

Sump choices are 30g acrylic, 29g glass, and 15g glass. All previously sourced and sitting in my basement. Thinking I will go with the 30g. Intend to set the middle chamber as a small frag tank/fuge.

Sourced an Octopus NW150 from a fellow reefer but the footprint is WAY to big. Think I'm going to settle on an Aqua C EV-120. Heard great things and should have no trouble fitting in any sump I have.

Have a Mag7 laying around but still in search for a quieter/"better" option.

Would love an MP but do have several Koralias and MJs laying around to provide flow. At least to get started.

Sourced about 60lbs of LR. It is in a large can with a powerhead and a heater. Will also use some rock from my current setup. About 80lbs of fine sand in a bucket as well. Also plan to use some from my current setup to seed.

Sourced a BRS dual reactor. May have to attach to the outside. May not be enough room inside the stand with the 30g sump.

18w "twist" UV Sterilizer for insurance.

Will use the RKL system to control. Looking to add another PC4 and eventually the NET module.

Livestock:
Moving from 28g
2 juvenile occys
1 Capenter Wrasse
1 Flame Tail Blennie (Biggie Smalls)
1 juvenile Benggai
1 Emerald and 1 Strawberry crab
1 Coral Banded
Misc CUC

Plan to add.
1 more Benggai
Maybe 1 more flasher type wrasse/Maybe a Flame Angel
1 Fire or cleaner shrimp
More CUC members
Wife wants a starfish. Maybe a linkia.
RBTA

Will post pics as I go. Would love to hear feedback as this in my 1st "real" build.

Thanks for looking!
 

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Congrats on the upgrade. Sounds like a nice build in the works. Great selectoin of fish as well. I would stick with the 30g for the sump. The bigger the better, more water volume and room for equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Will not be using this tank as I found one that was already drilled.


Now here comes the part where my ignorence makes it's 1st appearance.
What side of the sump does the skimmer go?
Where should the water level in the sump be when it's installed?
 

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Skimmer should go were all the water from display falls into that chamber in sump..
you also need to realize that when power is off,water will fill the sump ,so we want to make sure no floods.chateo algae and rubble rock in center,i have chateo i can give you when your ready..
you will have to make adjustments once you get everything plumbed.Ato should be installed in sump also and heater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks!

I meant which side of the sump? I know it will go where the tank drains. There are two different dividers in the sump. Just don know which side is the "drain" and "return" side.
 

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Thanks!

I meant which side of the sump? I know it will go where the tank drains. There are two different dividers in the sump. Just don know which side is the "drain" and "return" side.
looking at the sump, it would go on the left, because the baffle on the left will keep that chamber at a content level making for better skimmer performance.
 

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No you have it set correctly.... By looking at your sump picture to the left of the skimmer there is a break in the first baffle to create a "current" to flow into your fuge area then water will flow through your bubble traps then on to the return
I have to disagree. :kiss3:

with the first chamber (left) having bubble traps as well as a set height, this would be the perfect placement for the skimmer as the baffle will keep this area at a constent water height, and because of the bubble trap, micro bubble won't escape, and even if they did, the fuge area is long enough to have remaining bubble rise and pop before making it into the last section meant for the pump. the reason the baffle is split on that last chamber is for the fuge/return water level to go up and down with evaporation.

*Edit* to be honest, you could go either way with it, but if you go the way its set now, you would only have the last chamber (left) for evaporation.
 

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I have to disagree. :kiss3:

with the first chamber (left) having bubble traps as well as a set height, this would be the perfect placement for the skimmer as the baffle will keep this area at a constent water height, and because of the bubble trap, micro bubble won't escape, and even if they did, the fuge area is long enough to have remaining bubble rise and pop before making it into the last section meant for the pump. the reason the baffle is split on that last chamber is for the fuge/return water level to go up and down with evaporation.

*Edit* to be honest, you could go either way with it, but if you go the way its set now, you would only have the last chamber (left) for evaporation.
The only reason i say this is because my fuge layout is the exact same (ecosystem sump).. so im speaking from experience....

1) The second bubble trap (no matter what end you look at it from) is going to set the height for the fuge area or the "bubble trap" area
2)the split in the other baffle will constantly be under water so I dont know how evaporation is going to play a role but hey whatever youll have to set it up the way you want it.
 

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The only reason i say this is because my fuge layout is the exact same (ecosystem sump).. so im speaking from experience....

1) The second bubble trap (no matter what end you look at it from) is going to set the height for the fuge area or the "bubble trap" area
2)the split in the other baffle will constantly be under water so I dont know how evaporation is going to play a role but hey whatever youll have to set it up the way you want it.
Yeah this is why I edited my post above, after looking at it again, I came to that conclusion.

So Kenny, Ryan is correct..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Picked up the tank!

Should I clean the old coraline off?
If so how? I tried a brush with a vinegar/water mix. I also tried to scrape it off with an old credit card.
Other than that the tank looks great!




My next problem is every skimmer I get won't fit! I had an Octopus NW150 that was WAY too big. I looked up the footprint of an Aqua C 120 and found it would fit perfectly. That is until the gate valve is installed.

What do I do here?

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks to Rob, (rhouse24), for coming over and figuring a few things out for me.
A 90 elbow on the skimmer should do the trick!

Should have tank up tomorrow.
 

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Hey Kenny looks good so far and I was going to suggest an elbow too but glad you got it figured out on that at least, good skimmer by the way those AquaC have nearly zero maintenance and no pinwheels to worry about.

I'm not sure on the light, I would probably end up doing just what Jesse suggest and pull it apart and just mount it in there, or I don't know what model that light is or how much you could sell it for but maybe do that and just grab retrofit parts, just need a ballast, reflectors, endcaps and bulbs and couple screws and it would be up....

Good Luck!
 
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