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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Am curious as to whether I have proper lighting on my tank. I have a 150g ( 5'x2'x2') and am into the mixed reef but really want to do well with the SPS. My lighting sits about 16" off water and I am running 2 actinic blue VHO 110w ea and 2 regular 10k VHO 110w ea. And am also running 2 175w metal halides. I feel as though I need either another 175w halide or to upgrade to 250w halides.
I have a Pink Pocillapora that wont polyp, not turning white though.
I am regular on my water changes and have a great skimmer, sump and refugium.
Thanks
Dave
 

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well dave , i have a frag tank that is lit by an ice cap 660 w/4 ati 36" bulbs and it sits about 10" off the water. i have lots of sps/lps and softies , my sps has great polyp extension . however i used a 2/175mh w/2 actincs t5 (non icecap) and to even see tips of the polyp on my more picky sps i had to have the halide bulbs about 4" above water @ 10k and even lower @14k and this is on a tank that is only 12" deep . i am also considering the addition of 1 more bulb.hope that helps.
 

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I'd first look at replacing those VHOs with T5HO on an icecap with some quality lamps. Not only would they have better PAR, but are more efficient. I think this would be a better route than simply adding another MH fixture, especially if you plan on keeping it at that same height.
 

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16" high is quite a bit for 175W. If you were to keep the same set up, I would swap the two actinic VHO for more daylight or if VHO makes a Blue+ type bulb. How old are the 175w mH bulbs and what brand are they?

I too am using 175w MH but, and using 4x 54w T5's. Mounted at 13 Inches above my tank so the bottom of the bulbs across the board are 10" off the top of the tank. I only have a handful of sps for now but, the ones I have have great color and good polyp extension. Except the Rainbow Prostrata, It has great color but, minimal polyp extension. my lights consist of in this order

ATI Blue+
ATI Purple+
2x 175w 14k MH
ATI Blue+
ATI True Actinic
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
VHO bulbs

My bulbs are 2 blue and two white or daylight. And the Halide bulbs are under a year from what I was told when I bought them.....they are 20k XM bulbs. Ok I just measured instead of assuming and the halides are 14" off water and VHO's are 16".
 

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The height is a little high but probably ok, water is a filter for light not air, higher or lower is more for light spill over.

First would replace the mh bulbs a year old is too old and there light spectrum changes for the worse.

Two metal halides should cover five feet fine especially with the other bulbs but yes t5's are preferred they have better par and use way less electric, you should be able to just change your endcaps to use them, check your ballast and see.
 

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First would replace the mh bulbs a year old is too old and there light spectrum changes for the worse.

Two metal halides should cover five feet fine especially with the other bulbs but yes
+1 on the older bulbs and 20K XM aren't the best for Par valve. Look into another brand like DEEP BLUE STAR 20000K from CoralVue or AQUASTAR 14500K if you don't want that blue of a bulb. check out the par reviews for these bulbs-outstanding!

just my $.02
 

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Another thought - if your pocillopra doesn't have its polyps extending that isn't from lack of light. Also, sps tend to brown out from lack of light, not turn white. I would look into finding out why it doesn't have its polyps extended before going further. They're pretty hardy, so if its having problems any other sps will.

Do you supplement for calcium and alkalinity? That's a must for sps. Lighting is only one part - the other parts are just as important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The pocillapora polyped for a few days then stopped. I dose but dont test anything, I know cardinal sin. I am looking for test kits we speak

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i run 3 250w radium bulbs 10-12'' off water with vho atinics for supplamental,love the pop from vho, leds cant touch it imo...
 

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The pocillapora polyped for a few days then stopped. I dose but dont test anything, I know cardinal sin. I am looking for test kits we speak

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For good tests I personally love the API test kits, they are cheap and easy, sounds too good to be true but they are really good. I have tried other brands, but a lot of them have color charts that vary sooo little in color that you spend half of the time second guessing if your reading it right. API doesn't have all the tests though (no
Magnesium or iodine) and I bought salifert for those, and love them. The only brand I have HATED was Seachem...... The directions are way more in depth than they need to be and use liquid and powder combinations which in my opinion suck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
lights/test kits

I did purchase test kits, I bought the API multitest with Ammonia, nitrate, Nitrite, PH and Alkalinity, and got the Saliferts Calcium and Magnesium tests. Next i need to find a ATO system.
DAve
 

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Another thought - if your pocillopra doesn't have its polyps extending that isn't from lack of light. Also, sps tend to brown out from lack of light, not turn white. I would look into finding out why it doesn't have its polyps extended before going further. They're pretty hardy, so if its having problems any other sps will.

Do you supplement for calcium and alkalinity? That's a must for sps. Lighting is only one part - the other parts are just as important.
Couldn't agree more, I got tunnel vision when it came to lighting and after some experience realized that I had too much light to keep up with the other factors...Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium...I would replace your vho with t5s with ATI blue plus or Fiji purple combo and see how it goes for a few months...as mentioned sps brown out with lack of light, they tend to bleach with too much light or low Calcium/Alkalinity...not trying to be a wise *** but my pocilaporas are indestructible, they have polyps out and color long after my acros and stylos have bleached due to too much light or screwing up additives

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