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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have any experience or comments on these overflow boxes?

DELUXE CS90 WITH LID AND AQUA LIFTER
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/deluxe-cs90-with-lid-and-aqua-lifter.html

I'm really wanting to revamp my current setup to my sump because, well, it *****. The one overflow doesn't work anymore (seal broke) and the current one can't really compensate for the amount of water I'd like to circulate through the system. Plus there is the fear that the seal on this one could break as well, and although it wouldn't be a huge deal as the overflow would still work, but more so during a power outage. The water would continue to leak into the overflow and eventually overflow my sump.
Any comment suggestions would be very much appreciated on this or any other overflows you guys have used and are tried and true. Thank you!
 

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not a fan.

U tube designs are better.

Look for the widest weir you can find (inside box).

and the smallest diameter U tube. Smaller diameter increases velocity and will move a tremendous amount of water without needing a pump to keep the air evacuated.

HTH
 

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I used a cs90 for many years. It was OK but the little nipple on the overflow clogged too easily (algae and coralline mostly). Could you seal the existing overflow leak with superglue?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used a cs90 for many years. It was OK but the little nipple on the overflow clogged too easily (algae and coralline mostly). Could you seal the existing overflow leak with superglue?

Tom
It's tough to see, but it's on the inside of the tank. There are two large overflow boxes on each side of the tank that the guy made when I bought this off him. The seal on the inside of the box has broken and is submerged. The only way I could glue it is if I drain the tank, and honestly that's just not going to happen. I have nowhere to put the fish/rock/corals for a couple days while this thing seals. I'd like to eliminate these two large boxes and free up space in the tank and move to a more conventional overflow, but my concern is that siphon breaking or a power outage. A tank or sump overflow is obviously a huge concern of mine, as the tank is in a finished basement. Is there any issue you guys have had with this?
 

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Your sump should be big enough to handle a power outage. Keep in mind that the tank can only drain up to the water line on the overflow box...so with a hang on type overflow you'd only lose an inch or two of water from your tank.

What about only using one of the overflows? If you can get the overflows out without emptying the tank (you mentioned taking them out) then why not take out one? To be honest, I had a hob overflow and its a pain...internal overflows are MUCH better and much less maintenance. I'd never go back having had each type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your sump should be big enough to handle a power outage. Keep in mind that the tank can only drain up to the water line on the overflow box...so with a hang on type overflow you'd only lose an inch or two of water from your tank.

What about only using one of the overflows? If you can get the overflows out without emptying the tank (you mentioned taking them out) then why not take out one? To be honest, I had a hob overflow and its a pain...internal overflows are MUCH better and much less maintenance. I'd never go back having had each type.
The reason is that one seal already broke on one internal. My concern is that the other could break and in the instance that the power goes out for an extended period of time, the sump would overflow. If it was a typical HOB I wouldn't worry too much due to the fact it's close to the surface and my sump can handle that overflow. With the way my current setup is, it it were to break and my power is out, the overflow pipe sits so far down in the water about 1/3 of the tank would empty down into the sump and create a disaster. I know the likelihood of this happening may be remote, but it still does concern me.
 

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The picture helps a lot. First, superglue can be used underwater, so I still think that’s an option. But if you’re not comfortable with that, I have another idea. Rotate the 90* elbow inside the overflow and add a piece of PVC to raise the drain height so less of the tank would end up in the sump. With this option you could eliminate the overflow boxes but would risk having fish, snails, etc. taking a ride to the sump.

Tom
 

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...I'd like to eliminate these two large boxes and free up space in the tank and move to a more conventional overflow, but my concern is that siphon breaking or a power outage...
on seeing the boxes I think you are right to want to move away from them. Not much surface skimming there especially with just the one working.

The "old fashioned" overflow has been used for decades - I've used them for many years without incident.

The tube style IMO is far more reliable than the channel type. No pump required to keep it working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The picture helps a lot. First, superglue can be used underwater, so I still think that***8217;s an option. But if you***8217;re not comfortable with that, I have another idea. Rotate the 90* elbow inside the overflow and add a piece of PVC to raise the drain height so less of the tank would end up in the sump. With this option you could eliminate the overflow boxes but would risk having fish, snails, etc. taking a ride to the sump.

Tom
I've gone through both of these options in my head.

Can I use superglue underwater? I would think there would be an issue with adhesion if I'm applying underwater. Can anyone confirm that? If so that seems like a simple enough fix to get it going again. Would you need the gel version or does regular superglue suffice?

I've also thought about that second option as well and putting a screen of some sort on it.
 
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