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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I'm going to start working on the sump soon with another member on this forum. However, I wanted to see what others thought about the design I came up with.



So far this is what I have to work with. The tank will be a 30g (inside dimensions are 35 1/4" x 12" x 15"). I do know that the heaters; as I will be using two in case one fails are ~13.6inches long and they will be placed either on the bottom of the return area.

These are the reasons I have the design setup the way it is. The outflow is a 1500gph glass-holes kit with 2x1.5in. drains. one drain will feed the skimmer section while the other will feed the fuge and the excess will be bleed off in the skimmer section (I'm still thinking about plumbing ideas for this. Right now I'm thinking a "t" with a ball value to control the flow in the fuge.

I guess the main concern I have is the size of the skimmer section. I want the fuge. to be as large as possible as well as the return area and it has to fit the heaters plus the return pump (which is a waterblaster HY 7000). I know the pump is overkill but it will be the return as well as GFO and biopellet reactor and possibly a UV later on. All the extra flow not needed in the tank will also be bleed off back into the return section.

The thing that worries me is too much flow in the skimmer section won't allow the micro bubbles to escape in the baffles. This is why I can up with a second drawing.



In this drawing I have added another baffle in the return section ~1.5 inches off the bottom of the tank. This allows me to insert the heater and have them lay on the bottom of the tank, allowing the excess length to extend under the baffle. I'm hoping that this area will be large enough as to slow down the water allow the bubbles to escape. Also even though there is another baffle the return section is a good size so that evaporation and TO will remain constant. Question regarding this: I have read that you should have a larger return to prevent less Top-offs. however, I have also read that the small the return area the less water needs to be added at each TO allowing for a more stable salinity, as you are adding small amount more frequently vs. large amounts over longer periods.

Please let me know what you are thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I also forgot to add a another pic. This pic is with a peice of paper the size of the tank with the skimmer and skimmer pump set up as pictured. Ignor the baffles drawing in as these were there when the location of the skimmer was else where (as you can see the old rectangle box where the skimmer was before)



You can see in the picture bellow how large the return section was before I turned the skimmer around to the present location

 

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If you swapped the Fuge and return sections you could add an additional set of baffles in between them (the right side of your drawing). The overflow from the fuge would also go through that set of baffles. You could keep the baffles between the Skimmer and Fuge, and you could add a set of baffles (on the right side of your drawing). This way all of the overflow, including that from the fuge, would go through at least one set of baffles. Did that to mine, have all the water flowing left to right with the sump being the last.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The reason I don't what to swap the two is simply due to the fact that I want to be able to control the amount of flow in the fuge. The pump is way over kill but my thought is that eventually I may want to change the fuge into a frag holding tank for either SPS or LPS. In which ever case I decide the flow processed through that section will either need to be turned way up (SPS) or dialed down (LPS) and I want the ability to do that via the plumbing in place, not more pumps.
 

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Keeping in mind that you may want to change things, have you considered attaching ball valves to regulate the flow? I installed the Glass-Holes 1500 as well, and I even put ball valves on both of the overflow pipes. It may be overkill, but @ 1.99-2.99 for a ball valve, it leaves you with a great opportunity to change things at a later date as well as a emergency type shut off. My skimmer has 2 output lines, and I keep a valve on both, but only use the one line to the fuge to maintain a lesser flow. imo, all lines should have a valve. They offer you more options to tweak your system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh yes there shall be a lot of valves. I really haven't got much into plumbing as I want to get the sump up as a visual and then play will all the different configurations of the pipe and valves.

Anyone else have anything to say?
 

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Well I guess I could say this...the bigger the return area the more top off will go in at one time and the smaller less with more frequancy so you are correct. Depending on what you are trying to do with your system this may or may not be a problem. Like if you are trying to add kalk in your top off too much at once isnt good. I think the smaller the better, as long as you have an ato that is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I guess I could say this...the bigger the return area the more top off will go in at one time and the smaller less with more frequancy so you are correct. Depending on what you are trying to do with your system this may or may not be a problem. Like if you are trying to add kalk in your top off too much at once isnt good. I think the smaller the better, as long as you have an ato that is.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not adding kalk. as I'm using dosing pumps to dose 2 part throughout the day/night so it will be stright RO/DI water going in at TO. I only have a 5.5 gallon TO storage tank. I'm just not sure what to do. I think I better have my RO/DI filter plumbed right into the storage tank as with a large return area it might have to add the whole amount during TO to get it back up to the float sensor.
 

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I'd make the skimmer section a little bigger and return pump section smaller. The heater can go in any section. One three-pane baffle will be enough for bubble trap. No need for the extra piece in my opinion. Just drop one drain line each into sump and skimmer section. No need to bleed anything off into the skimmer section. Sure, the larger the return pump section the more leeway you have in frequency of top-off's. I wouldn't worry about your top-off volume being too big an creating big salinity changes. Top-offs are comparitively really small volumes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The heater can go in any section.
This is my problem the heaters wont fit in any other section. They are ~14inches long and the glass baffles will be in the way. I could put them on the bottom of the return section on a diagonal but then the return pump is in the way.
 
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