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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sigh..... was tinkering with the tank this morning (because I got a couple new corals last night so wanted to ensure they had proper placement) and my lid decided to shut while I was still working in the tank. I have a full acrylic splash guard with a small plastic handle on it that I also use to lock the lid upright but the small handle broke. Needless to say, I broke an actinic bulb over the tank and many bulb fragments landed in the tank. :eek: I have removed as much as I can see, even moved some of the larger LR out of the tank temporarily to ensure I got as much as I possible. I am wondering if the white coating inside the bulb is toxic to the tank. Luckily I have about 40 gal of fresh SW on hand (was going to do the sump/fuge change over on my cube today :eek: ) so can do a large water change if needed. Any quick responses would be greatly appreciated. Going to go pick up a new bulb and then do another search and recovery for bulb fragments... :(
 

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I think you will be OK we should get together and go musky fishing next summer
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
primetime said:
I think you will be OK we should get together and go musky fishing next summer
lol, that was my fisrt musky (and only so far :rolleyes: ) Would be cool to hit Lake st. clair again with a pro. Caught him near the dumping grounds...

Hardcz, what is a poly pad? I have a a cuprisorb pad I forgot to take back that supposedly absorbs copper so will probably toss that in there as well. Just added fresh carbon to the filter.
 
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tim that white coating on the inside of the bulbs is phosphorus weather or not this chemicle will cause to happen or not is debatable but could also cause a phos spike since it is the base element in phosphates
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
tazzy695 said:
tim that white coating on the inside of the bulbs is phosphorus weather or not this chemicle will cause to happen or not is debatable but could also cause a phos spike since it is the base element in phosphates
Thnx Tazzy, will do a quick phos test to see how bad it is.
 
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only other thing you have to worrie about is the tiny drop of murcury they use in the bulbs to make them light up forgot to mention that so definately run your carbon and do the waterchange like mentioned earler
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
http://www.tcpi.com/PDF/1367_01317%20T5%20MSDS%20Sheeta.pdf

Just found the generic MSDS sheet for T5 bulbs. Figured I would link it for future reference.

Yep, plan on doing the water change today. Got Carbon and a Cuprisorb pad running (says it will absorb all types of metal so if any mercury got in there, hopefully that will help), turned up the skimmer to run a bit wetter and will pick up a poly pad when I head out for the new bulb.

Thanks all.
 

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make sure you put the pad in an area of semi high flow...so if you have a sump... put it where the water is coming in, if not... try to put it near a powerhead so it gets flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hardcz said:
make sure you put the pad in an area of semi high flow...so if you have a sump... put it where the water is coming in, if not... try to put it near a powerhead so it gets flow.
Yeah, there is a large sump box in the back of the tank that has a small fuge (just like a slightly larger scale nano setup) in it and return pump sections so am just stacking pads in the entrance area. ;)
 
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