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Use a UV light system or not when adding fish to new tank?

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning on moving livestock from my 28g to my new 65g that has been up for almost a month.
http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/members-tanks/124102-kennywiz-65g-build.html

Would you add a UV to your system when adding the livestock?
Some have told me yes and leave it up for 6weeks after that last fish was added.
Others have said to only use if you note ich or the like. the light could kill some "good things" in my tank as well.
I have an 18w laying around with a new bulb. I used a very small one in my 28g for quite a while as a "safety".

The only new fish is the kole tang. It was at a LFS for a few weeks and was eating and swimming strong when i purchased. The remaining stock from my 28g should be added later this next week. (2 occy clowns/ flame tail blennie/ carpenters Wrasse)
 

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I use one (on my FW) and plan to on my SW. However, I will only run mine when making new additions to the tank. Currently on my FW I plug it in whenever I add new fish even if they have been quarantined. With FW (not sure about SW) Ich larva are usually present in the water all the time. Healthy fish with a good slime coat can prevent infection. However, even though you QT fish for a month and put them in the new tank you can still get ich. Stressed fish stop or slow production of the slime coat which allows then to become infested with the parasite. After I add the fish I usually leave it run for a month as I have to high gph going through it so I run it longer than most people.

With SW I don't think you want to run it to long as pods and other micro inverts. pass though it may kill or harm them as well as what you are after.
 

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I just added one to my breeding system, and this is also the first one I've ever used in my 20+ years in the hobby.. I was sadden to read that if you set it up to help keep parasites at bay, it does nothing for algae, and vise versa. :wacko:

So I run mine to help with parasite control.
 

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I would say that if you are going to run one, keep ing running 24/7. If you only add one once in a while it can shock your system and kill off good bacteria potentially causing a crash. However, with that said, that is only what I have read and have not experience this or talked to anyone who has. I run my 24/7 but it is also only rated for up too 100 gallons and my tank is 90. I would get a quality one, paying the extra money. The slower the flow and longer contact time is what you want. Like many other piece of equipment, some will say it can be donw without it and some will say you must have it. I think a UV iis more a piece of mind than anything, simply another to aid the over all health of your system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is the good twist one where the water doesn't contact the light directly. Think coralife 18w.

I appreciate the input. I keep hearing different opinions and different advantages/disadvantages. Also hear horror stories from use and non use.


Basically I am searching for facts. If I use when adding the fish and up to 6 weeks after the last fish is added, can I safely remove the system?

Will it kill the good bacteria I want in my system?

If I don't use it, can I employ it at the 1st signs of ich and have a good chance at a positive outcome? Then can I safely remove after signs have disappeared and 6 weeks after?

Thank you all!
 

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With SW I don't think you want to run it to long as pods and other micro inverts. pass though it may kill or harm them as well as what you are after.
They will not kill the above mentioned organisms. The contact time and intensity of the uv is not enough to kill them.

It will not kill the good bacteria in your tank. That bacteria is growing on substrate not floating in the water where it can pass through the UV.

If you are going to do a UV you should buy an Emperor Aquatics or not get one at all. The corallifes and Aqua UVs are junk.
 

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They will not kill the above mentioned organisms. The contact time and intensity of the uv is not enough to kill them.

It will not kill the good bacteria in your tank. That bacteria is growing on substrate not floating in the water where it can pass through the UV.

If you are going to do a UV you should buy an Emperor Aquatics or not get one at all. The corallifes and Aqua UVs are junk.
Good input
 

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.

I have had over 30 fish in two tanks and have not ran one. Last time I used one was in 99 which was a aquanetic 25watt. Running one I had lots of success with never doing a water change and old tank syndrome. However, since I got back in in 2010 I follow simple preventive maintenance and no issues. However I am finding a lot of success with Bio-Pellets. Perhaps you should look in this direction
 

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I would run one on a fish only system. I think they are destructive on a coral system, killing the bacterial food corals eat.
 

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Can you share where you read this?
Sure, read this page as well as any other that pertains to UV Sterilization:
What is UV Sterilization?

as well as :
UV Dosages for Proper UV Disinfection

a correctly setup UV system is setup to target a microorganism's required UV Dose.

Sample :
Algae - Needs a 22,000 dose
Ich - Needs a 280,000 dose

You'd think that if you set the UV system to a 280,000 dose that you'd kill the ich as well as the algae, well in a way your correct and wrong, The fact that the system is running a slower flow rate to kill the Ich, its not fast enough to keep up with the algae's reproductive speed. YES it would kill the algae, just not to the point you'd have no algae.
 

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Replied with some info relevant in the Build thread

I'd be curious to hear about the issues had with Aqua Ultraviolet units. We've sold many different types of units over the years including hundreds of Aqua UV's, and had almost no returns. The only issues that I can think of in any recent history are user related for example a reckless bulb change breaking the quartz sleeve, or not ensuring a good seal when installing the quartz sleeve and getting water inside the sleeve damaging the bulb and potentially the ballast.

Steve
 

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Lots of good posts here :eek:rder

I don't know how many people will skip over the link about UV sterilization, So I will just highlight the main part... UV lights breaks (they say alters) the DNA thus rendering it incapable of multiplying. This particularly works well on micro organisms. Larger multi-cellular organisms not as much, and larger complex organisms even less.

Thats not to say that they are not effected. UV effects all living creatures including us. In larger creatures, it commonly causes cancer (basically cells growing with broken/mutated DNA) and as well all know, cancer can lead to death.

For this reason, I suggest not using a UV with a few exceptions. UVs are great in QT tanks, and hospital tanks. Use them there to control the spread of parasites. This only works on the parasites when they are in the free swimming state. Make sure that both the size of tank, and the rate of flow match the UV. IF the UV is too small for the tank, you wont effectively kill the free swimming parasites. If the flow is too high, the parasites will pass by to quickly and not be effected by the light.

I don't suggest running them on display tanks, You do kill small amounts of beneficial bacteria, but you will also damage pods etc that will flow through. It may not kill them, but it will essentially give them cancer and then the fish will eat them... Would you knowingly eat a steak from a cow with a brain tumor? Why not??? That's essentially what is happening with a UV.

Reef tanks by definition are filled with coral and other organisms that eat the free floating parasites. There are also shrimp and fish that clean parasites off of infected fish. This combination (along with good water quality) should keep your fish healthy. Most healthy fish can survive parasite infections.

If you do get an outbreak of parasites, this would be the exception to the rule. I would suggest doing your best to catch and quarantine the effected fish, then add a UV to both the QT tank, and to your display tank.

I have been fortunate to not battle parasites in a while, but the last time I did (ammylodonium came in on an emperor angel) it ripped through my fish. If I had set up my UV sterilizer on the QT tank I would have saved many fish. Unfortunately I was lazy and didn't take the time to set it up. I figured I would see the parasites and be able to add the UV if necessary. Ammylodonium is black (not like easy to spot white ICH) and I missed it on the black angel... It wasn't until my wife had spotted "babbies" in the QT tank that I knew it was present. By then, they had spread to almost all the fish in QT and many were lost :(

I learned my lesson many years ago, and hopefully you won't have to experience it now.

USE UV ON QUARANTINE TANKS...especially if you are adding multiple fish. Make ur best judgement on using them in display tanks. They do have pro's and cons. But ultimately, do the research and make an educated decision :victory:
 

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I'll add a little here...

I use a 40W UV on my reef display (mostly as precautionary measure) and I can only tell you that I've seen positive benefits. I have lots of pods in the sump. For me, it's mostly about insurance and peace of mind. I work on the tank a lot so laziness is not the reason I have this piece of equipment.

The UV will not differentiate between good and bad bacteria. It will kill anything that spends enough time in its chamber. If the organism isn't killed, it's proteins and/or DNA may become denatured. This can lead to a tumor or the like... but this is not a problem for a fish that may consume the organism. Consuming a tumor does not give you a tumor. So I do not think there is much to worry about with respect to a UV doing harm to a system. Just my 2 cents... but I am pretty smart so I'm probably right. :3195:
 

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I would like to see the documented evidence of copepods getting cancer from UV.

Let's put this into context.

Some of you are more concerned with a few copepods that may make their way into your UV sterilizer and become mutated than have a piece of equipment that can help reduce the outbreak of disease in the tank. Hmmmm I can't understand that logic.

If you are going to follow that logic then you probably should throw out your skimmer too because that is grabbing bacteria and small organisms out of the water column and the poor copepods that get sucked into the pump and lose an appendage that would be horrible.

I look at it this way. We are dealing with a closed environment. Things build up quick in a closed environment. That's why all of you have all this equipment on your tank to remove nutrients and toxins. Why not add some biological filtration that helps keep parasite numbers down?

@StevePreuss- I shouldn't have lumped AquaUV with Coralife. They are much better than that, but their flow rates and ratings are way off to where I do not believe people are getting the full benefits of a UV.
 

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Ok, A few things about my previous post.

1) I wasn't trying to say that eating a tumor would cause the fish to get tumors... It was meant more for a visual aid. However, there is definitely evidence that suggests organisms that have cancer and reproduce increase the likelihood of cancer in the offspring.

2) I really don't think I need to do a study on the effects of UV light on copepods... do I??? With the THOUSANDS of clinical studies that have been done on various creatures showing the effect of UV radiation on living cells I thought 2+2=4 here. But maybe I'm wrong, maybe copepods are the cockroaches of the sea?

3) If you read my post you will see I am not against UV filtration. I just think it works much better as a prevention tool (in a QT) than a reaction tool. I do believe I said that it would be a good idea to keep one for your display tank in case you need it. I simply suggested that you not run it 24/7/365.

I hope that helps clarify things a little :victory:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks all who have replied to this thread. Your post were very helpful along with subsequent research.

My plan is to use the 18w UV twist I have with a 200GPH pump (manufacturer spec), for about the next 6 weeks. From the posts and research, I don't see how this could harm and could only help during the livestock's stressful transition and acclimation.

I should have the move from my old 28g to the new tank done by Sunday. I am moving slowly and checking my parameters daily during this time. I had a great running system with healthy livestock in my 28g. I'd hate to lose that in my new system.

Thanks again and please continue the discussion, as most of it is very helpful and informative. :victory:
 
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