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I have been around awhile. I dont claim to be a reef genius or expert. I recently took down my 75g display tank and replaced it with a 120g. I have a basement sump system of over 200g which the 75 was tied into. I used all dry rock (brs type) and new sand in the 120. I set the 120 up got the water to temp and tied it into the system 2 days later at full flow. The 120 cycled lightly, but did cycle, ammonia, nitrite all of it, very low numbers though. The basement sump system didnt fluctuate at all. Different readings same test kit. While talking to a reefer who has been around alot longer then me he related a story simular to mine in adding a frag tank. Frag tank cycled rest of the system didnt. Now maybe the filtration/bacterial population of the main system was able to handle the increase in ammonia and properly convert it without incident. With the sand being used and possible nutrients/dead and dying organisms still there I personally would wait it out. Then slowly tie them together as you suggested over the course of two to three days. If you had used all new sand I'd say tie it in but as it stands i'd wait it out for a couple weeks. When you start to tie them together i'd test daily in the main system.

BTW I am still having some new tank syndrome in the 120 :wacko: Been up since august 18th.
Good luck that is one impressive tank!
 
And no I wasn't going to do anything before the new test kits that I just ordered arrived. I didn't even want to use the old ones that I have laying around. I guess I could have taken a water sample up to the LFS though, but somethings you just want to test yourself, ya know?
I know exactly what you mean, unfortunately we don't have a solid LFS to go to in my area. The one place I have sent many of my reefer friends came back to bite me in the butt, they had been selling 60+ppm r/o water for months... If you can't handle a TDS meter in fresh r/o water, I'm sure not going to trust you with real chemistry in saltwater!

It's good to get second opinions though, I recently switched calcium test kits from my salifert test kit (a real pain) to a new hanna checker. I always liked to maintain around ~440-480, so when I check it with the hanna, and it came out 590 I was floored! That's a huge difference! If I had a 100pt difference in my nitrates, I would have thousands of dollars down the drain... litterally :butcher:

So my advice is still this, Test, Test, and ReTest... then take it to two local LFSs if you have any good ones, and ask them to do a test. Once your are confident your tank has sufficiently cycled, begin to open up the flood gates and let the fun begin :)

Happy Reefing my friend, and I can't wait to see the updates!
 
I agree that the sticking point here is the old sand, and if it were in my tank I would let the new tank cycle all the way before opening it up to the rest of the system.

You said that you have some expensive fish in the other half of the system, and I just personally wouldn't take a chance with that kind of livestock. IME expensive often means delicate as well, so any little spike could cause major problems with your current livestock.

I would pull a few rocks from the sump and place them in the the 360 in order to help establish good bacterial populations, then throw some shrimp in and let it cycle just like it was a new tank getting set up independently. I may be overly cautious, but I have taken a chance and got burned before and there is nothing worse than the feeling of "You idiot, you knew better than that" that follows if it doesn't work as planned.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I'm at work right now, but looked at the tracking# and the test kits I ordered were delivered this morning, so we'll see where I'm at. The plan was to let the tank fully cycle. I did put some live rock from the sump in the tank with an ice tray cube of the fish food I make in there to help.

can't wait ti get out of here and see what the levels are.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Ok, got home and tested my tank.... Ammonia is undetectable and Nitrates are below 10 ph is 8.3...

I figure doing a 100 gallon water change will drop the Nitrates and them I'm cracking the valves ( still slow 100 gallons a day slow) and let this go for the week, then I'll do a whole system 20% water change and start putting my fish into the tank. :)
 
That's great the sooner it running all together the better! And nitrates below 10 any sps in the rest of the system will be fine! I would just not forget to check the phosphates out from/in all the new water and you should be good to go.
 
Im no expert, but all I know is i don't care how you do it as long as you get your A** in gear so you can place a liveaquaria order, that I can of course jump in on :3195: lol. Other than that..... I've got nothing......
 
Ok, got home and tested my tank.... Ammonia is undetectable and Nitrates are below 10 ph is 8.3...

I figure doing a 100 gallon water change will drop the Nitrates and them I'm cracking the valves ( still slow 100 gallons a day slow) and let this go for the week, then I'll do a whole system 20% water change and start putting my fish into the tank. :)
So how did it work? Curious to hear about whether you had to deal with some feisty algae growth in the recently cycled part of the system.

Steve
 
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