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10K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  alvieman  
#1 ·
I was just reading the Book of Coral Propagation where Anthony Calfo mentions that the most ideal way to mariculture frags is to set up a raceway design. Has anyone ever tried this in their home? I know that the Tropicorium has it set up in a similar fashion, but I am handy and could easily create this design for my 10 gallon frag tank! Any ideas?
 
#4 ·
Tim,

Too funny I just picked up the same book and am trying to decide how to set up my race way!!

you have to set up dividers the full height of the water in the tank, kinda make a skinny hallway. the idea is to force the water to flow in a very controlled path from entry to exit.

channeling the water will increase the flow by the number of hallways you have.

A tank with 1000gph flow divided into 4 raceways would be the exact same thing as having 4 diff tanks set up all having 1000gph flow.
 
#5 ·
Sounds similar but a little different.

Yes I get awesome growth in my frag tank. Between the flow and 10k halide, there is a reason I have around 60 corals in there right now that have to get into the main tank at somepoint.
 
#9 ·
Raceways can be set-up in many fashions for many purposes, however generally they are meant to rapidly grow coral which is why they are associated with high flow. The general idea behind them is high flow and shallow water to make more efficient use out of the lighting scheme. Many times the "raceways" are built right on top of sumps that hold more water volume and all the equipment necessary, so the only thing in the raceways are coral (and the rack they're sitting on).

IMO/IME one of the more efficient ways to run any kind of system, whether its your display or a propagation tank, is to use the "gyree style." It keeps things in suspension and consistantly provides the animals with nutrients from the water column.

Here are several examples of raceways for coral propagation:

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Note the bulkheads for the alternating (zig-zag) flow like timhook mentioned:
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Close-up of a raceway... Note the powerfull lights and super shallow design:
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Equipment for a raceway:
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Raceway with sumps underneath:
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Link to DIY your own raceway just like seen in the pic above: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqbizsubwebindex/pafarmstks.htm

Many times raceways are not only used just to breed coral, but as holding systems by importers, wholesalers and retailers. They're an efficient means to hold coral because they're relatively cheap to set-up, and they are efficient.
 
#15 ·
thstorms said:
Tim this is the build site for that raceway design!
http://www.cnidarianreef.com/mequip.cfm
I like that design, and I can see how it could be beneficial. To me, thats essentially a bunch of little raceways in one tank. It would allow for one pump to create an extreme amount of flow becasue its being forced down each individual section. Since its nice and shallow it would allow for a lower wattage bulb to create intense lighting as well. I think over time you'd notice some major "leaning" and funky growth forms in the coral seeing how its a very direct flow though...but you could overcome that in various methods, one being as simple as turn the coral every couple weeks.

With that design you cannot implement the gyree system/method; easily at least.

I dont have any links at work, but I did make up a quick drawing for you guys that shows the basis of a gyree. Scott will post some pics of his frag tank to give you a real world version, or if you've ever been to the Tropicorium then you've seen one method of it in their aquaculture vats. In my drawing below you'll see that there is an overflow in it, and essentially the goal is to grab all the detrius/nutrients off the bottom of the tank, bring them up to the animals your growing for their nutrition, then taking it down to the sump to export extra nutrients, then pumping it back up thus creating a cycle. You can do the same thing without the overflow, like at the Trop, or in a simple frag set-up with pumps creating a circular motion like that. I like to throw additional nutrient export into any system like that though....on with my "iffy" paint pic :laugh: :

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In the pic you'll see the motion of flow represented by the red arrows. The colored branches are supposed to represent corals that are on a rack of some kind, keeping them close to the water surface to be exposed to high amounts of light, and flow. The height will differ based on equipment used for lighting and flow, and of course the species of animal.

Most raceways are designed to circulate flow like this. In the pic in my other post above with the bulkheads, thats an additional means of creating flow. That will help the corals grow in a more natural manner. Sometimes in gyree systems you'll notice the coral is growing in a shape that looks like its being blown in the wind.
 
#16 ·
Here's another beautifull drawing I made of a gyree in its most basic form. You could do this in a 10 gallon with just a couple powerheads:

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Obviously this can be more than difficult to accomplish in a DT due to Liverock, corals, "aesthetics" of the system, etc. but with carefull planning it can be accomplished. Many times in DTs we end up having current that fights with each other, or cancels itself out. If you can avoid this you can get away with much fewer pieces of equipment, remove dead spots and have an overall healthier reef. Its extremely important to have directional flow, and its very beneficial to add alternating current. Directional flow will help remove detrius from the substrate (or BB) and the corals' tissue, along with deliver nutrients to the animals and begin exporting the nutrients (by moving it). Idealy the directional flow will deliver all excess nutrients to the filter (sump, etc.), but we strive for the best we can. By adding an alternating current you will achieve a more natural growth form from your animals, and in addition help keep detrius suspended in the water column for the directional flow to move.

I'll see if I can find the links/articles I have on this when I get home...
 
#20 ·
Nope, just SPS frags. I do have some zoos and shrooms on the bottom, but I am able to put them in a low flow spot. It took some time as far as positioning the PH to make sure frags weren't blowing off the racks, but they are fine now.
 
#21 ·
I hadn't read about this type of set-up but it's how I have my frag tank set up.

I have a MJ on the left end directed toward the other end. The water circulates back toward the MJ and a skimmer intake.

I added a refugium that has an intake pump on the right end, near the bottom. The 'fuge return is right in front of the MJ... so, everything gets blown around quite a bit. Very little settles on the bottom.
 
#23 ·
My setup is nearly identical to Austin's second picture. In the lower area where he shows a powerhead I have two MJ900s modded with Sure-Flow mod kits. The in the upper area where he shows a power head I have my returns to the tank (about 900 gallons per hour). My rack is made out of egg crate and is centered in the tank. The tank is a 50 breeder. I dual 1" overflows above the lower powerheads that drain to the same sump my display tank and refugium run to.

I keep 95% SPS corals. I do have a few LPS in the frag tank (candy canes and similar LPS). They all grow very well. For lighting I have a single 250w XM 10k bulbs in a Luminarc LAIII reflector and two 24" VHO actinics.

I will work on some pics. Today is tank maintenance day so just got done scraping algae and doing other things so everything is dirty looking right now. Give it a little time to settle down.