Michigan Reefers banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

lots of tanks lol

Tags
120 250 300 acrylic clean coral cube fish flint frag gallon job large led livestock nano pvc red reef reef ready sump tank tanks top wanted
Jump to Latest
21 - 40 of 69 Posts
#21 ·
huge can of worms

dude that was a rather large can of worms you opened up there like eight people asked to build them a tank! they is like going to any club on eight mile and saying i do boob jobs!lol your laid off they need tanks im smeling a comprimise here
 
#22 ·
Try acetone for removing old silicone (nail polish remover).
Makes it soft like butter. Plus evaporates completely.

Bananaboat, are you sure the panes aren't going to be pushed out?

I think the eurobrace guys usually machine a slit in the bottom pane to hold the outer panels from pushing out.

I have a hard time believing just silicone will do that.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
novi tony said:
Try acetone for removing old silicone (nail polish remover).
Makes it soft like butter. Plus evaporates completely.

Bananaboat, are you sure the panes aren't going to be pushed out?

I think the eurobrace guys usually machine a slit in the bottom pane to hold the outer panels from pushing out.

I have a hard time believing just silicone will do that.
Click to expand...
i have built alot of tanks this way never had any issues at all my sump has been full for over 1.5years and all you need is silicone and to use thicker glass exp. a standard 60gal cube uses 1/4in (5.5mm) plate glass if i build rimless i use 8-8.5mm glass thicker glass doesnt bow you have to plan for this if the glass doesnt bow there is no added stress to the silcone

witch tank where you worried about ? those cubes are only 30gals and made from 1/4in glass and only 12in tall not gonna bow at all at 2ftlong i have worked with glass for over 5.5years if i dont think it will work i wont build it the 168 gal will be braced my cousin isnt ready for the tank so we never finished it yet
 
#24 ·
bananaboat said:
i use 8-8.5mm glass thicker glass doesnt bow you have to plan for this if the glass doesnt bow there is no added stress to the silcone
Click to expand...
I don't think so.

Without bracing on the top or bottom the amount of pull on the seals will be relatively the same with or without bowing of the viewing panes themselves.

There's a lot of weight and head pushing on those panes. To rely on a 3/8'' strip of silicone to hold the whole show together seems a bit risky to me.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
novi tony said:
I don't think so.

Without bracing on the top or bottom the amount of pull on the seals will be relatively the same with or without bowing of the viewing panes themselves.

There's a lot of weight and head pushing on those panes. To rely on a 3/8'' strip of silicone to hold the whole show together seems a bit risky to me.
Click to expand...
so what your saying is some cheap plastic brace siliconed on the top and bottom of your tank keeps the silicone together? and really glass cages builds the same as me also a few other places i did alot of research before building and have over 20 tanks done the same way no issues

http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Images/aquariumfinished.jpg
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Images/aquariumbuild4.jpg
http://www.fishtankshop.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=37112
http://glassbox-design.com/theglassbox/ (abit overbuilt butt you get the point)
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133557

http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=46

im not here to argue with you if you dont like it dont build one i know it works so do alot of other people lets try and keep this thread on track here im showing people how i build tanks in my thread if you have a differnt way start your own thread thanks jim
 
#30 ·
Wasn't an argument at all. Sorry if it came off that way.

I just have a hard time visualizing JUST silicone holding those panes from getting pushed out from the pressure from the water.

I'm not saying you can't do it. It seems like you've done it with no problems.
To me it just seems safer at the top and bottom of the tank to have a 1 piece bracket of some sort to keep the water from pushing out the glass and springing a leak..

The glass tanks I have seen builds on have the glass being pushed out against the braces, then the silicone is applied. After it dries, the turnbuckles pushing out on the glass are removed.

Best of luck to you.

I hope you don't have any problems at all, I'm just a bit overcautious when there's $1000 worth of livestock and 100gallons of water sitting above 20AMPS of electricity.
 
#32 ·
it's finished, looks sweet, UltraWhite is low-iron glass that's similar to Starphire (PPG's brand) if not 2X's as sweet and our ExtraClear and EcoGuard blow Starphire away! I got 1 of the 24 x 24 x 12's from Jim the other day, I also got a 60 cube from him that went to alvieman, l8r
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
i cut most to size but some at home just takes the right cutting wheel not the cheap ones and some lube(wd-40) works fine spray where the cut will be on the glass and the right pressure more the thicker it is and some luck when cutting at home place a broom handle under the score press on both sides to snap
 
#40 ·
1/4 inch....I have a friend who has been doing stained glass for a few years. She has the proper tools and the experience to make the cuts for me. Until i was talking with her today I forgot she worked with glass:jester:


thanks for the advice however.

Townes
 
21 - 40 of 69 Posts
About this Discussion
68 Replies
22 Participants
Last post:
mebo926@aol.com
Michigan Reefers
posts
1M
members
20K
Since
2003
Michigan Reefers is dedicated to the marine reef aquarium hobby. Learn more about reef aquariums and maintenance, and view our large collection of coral and marine fish photos.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Selling Forums Want to Buy Announce Frag Meets & Swaps New Member Introductions