A few years ago I picked up a aquacontroller for my system. Wow it takes place of ph controller,temp controller,wavemaker and some orp and oxygen. Their has been so many leaps and bounds for the marine aquarist. I honest think this is one. Now on my third generation of the aquacontroller I believe and honestly think it has something to do with my succuss with actually keeping everything so stable and allowing to have fun with the hobby.
I still meet alot of people without them and many that really dont understand them and their potential.
I run aquacontroller 3 w/ dc4,dc8
DC4
1-halides#1 one single halide
2-halides#2 two halide *switch on 1/2hour from each other
3-skimmer pump* ive been turning my skimmer off at night for feeding and easy to turn off for cleaning
4-returnpump* turns off during feedings. keeps food in main tank so it doesnt settle in bottom of sump
DC8
5-kalk stirrer * mine stirs every 200 minutes but if you trying to fine tune you calcium using just kalk. ex. if my calcium is close but lower than what I want I have it stir more often or vise vera. also has been programed not to come on if pump is on...neat
6-kalk pump* I run a Reeftek kalk reactor turned on by dosing pump and controlled by PH and its albe to turn on for 1 minute every 15. help from overdosing.
7-topoff. I run a level loc ato ran directly from RO. Awesome topoff safest i ve seen.it runs 3 minutes every 90 minutes. just in case both switchs on the ato sticks. keeps the solenoid from burning up as well.
8-moonlights
9-heater
10-powerheads 4 minutes on/4 minutes off. trying to save electricity. every powerhead should shut off for moment. It helps from accumilating debris.
11-actnics* sunrise/sunset
12-fan* turns on if I hit 81.5 degrees.
temp setting will also let you shut off lights if thinks get to hot
ex. hd1 shuts down at 82 degrees. hd2 shutdown at 82.5.
Also I have it if ph is super low I have lights come on to possibly help with the ph.
powerfailure* in the past I have had power failures and to find out that the circuit breaker popped when power came on. think about how much amperage is coming on as once. large equipment/tanks will have this problem,but with this controller you can stagger the equipment turning on the most important first and slowly turning the rest on in staggered one minute periods. ex. returns on first then a minute later the heaters.When setting up the system I would turn power off simulating a powerfailure and make sure sumps dont over flow and no unusual problems often no thought off at that time and then refire the system and make sure it comes online properly.
I do recommend replacing phobes annually(or have a spare on hand) and cleaning and recalibrating monthly. I have had a old style temp probe go bad.
things happen just have to be prepared.
Now the trend is to go online with this and be able to see and control you tank from anywhere,also paging you if one of your set alarm setting is met and actually it a piece of mind that I know Im coming home to a beautiful healthy tank and not a huge disaster.
They are so affordable these days and a few companys sell a controller for $99. You will still need some add ons but its insurance I wouldn't live without.
This is open thread for thoughts and comments.
I still meet alot of people without them and many that really dont understand them and their potential.
I run aquacontroller 3 w/ dc4,dc8
DC4
1-halides#1 one single halide
2-halides#2 two halide *switch on 1/2hour from each other
3-skimmer pump* ive been turning my skimmer off at night for feeding and easy to turn off for cleaning
4-returnpump* turns off during feedings. keeps food in main tank so it doesnt settle in bottom of sump
DC8
5-kalk stirrer * mine stirs every 200 minutes but if you trying to fine tune you calcium using just kalk. ex. if my calcium is close but lower than what I want I have it stir more often or vise vera. also has been programed not to come on if pump is on...neat
6-kalk pump* I run a Reeftek kalk reactor turned on by dosing pump and controlled by PH and its albe to turn on for 1 minute every 15. help from overdosing.
7-topoff. I run a level loc ato ran directly from RO. Awesome topoff safest i ve seen.it runs 3 minutes every 90 minutes. just in case both switchs on the ato sticks. keeps the solenoid from burning up as well.
8-moonlights
9-heater
10-powerheads 4 minutes on/4 minutes off. trying to save electricity. every powerhead should shut off for moment. It helps from accumilating debris.
11-actnics* sunrise/sunset
12-fan* turns on if I hit 81.5 degrees.
temp setting will also let you shut off lights if thinks get to hot
ex. hd1 shuts down at 82 degrees. hd2 shutdown at 82.5.
Also I have it if ph is super low I have lights come on to possibly help with the ph.
powerfailure* in the past I have had power failures and to find out that the circuit breaker popped when power came on. think about how much amperage is coming on as once. large equipment/tanks will have this problem,but with this controller you can stagger the equipment turning on the most important first and slowly turning the rest on in staggered one minute periods. ex. returns on first then a minute later the heaters.When setting up the system I would turn power off simulating a powerfailure and make sure sumps dont over flow and no unusual problems often no thought off at that time and then refire the system and make sure it comes online properly.
I do recommend replacing phobes annually(or have a spare on hand) and cleaning and recalibrating monthly. I have had a old style temp probe go bad.
things happen just have to be prepared.
Now the trend is to go online with this and be able to see and control you tank from anywhere,also paging you if one of your set alarm setting is met and actually it a piece of mind that I know Im coming home to a beautiful healthy tank and not a huge disaster.
They are so affordable these days and a few companys sell a controller for $99. You will still need some add ons but its insurance I wouldn't live without.
This is open thread for thoughts and comments.